THE CANNABIS THREAD 101!!

Gotta question for the Kats that make edibles or gummies..


Ive been making gummies the past 2 months and Im noticing when I put them in the fridge too cool down, sum of the infused coconut oil is separating and settling on top.. Has anyone had that issue before and how did you deal with it?? Or do you think I should leave them out of the fridge and let them cool??
 
Gotta question for the Kats that make edibles or gummies..


Ive been making gummies the past 2 months and Im noticing when I put them in the fridge too cool down, sum of the infused coconut oil is separating and settling on top.. Has anyone had that issue before and how did you deal with it?? Or do you think I should leave them out of the fridge and let them cool??
It’s the mixin where you will find the right way

I hate usin a wisk but it’s the best way

we quit makin eds, wife jus takes the infused oil
 
It’s the mixin where you will find the right way

I hate usin a wisk but it’s the best way

we quit makin eds, wife jus takes the infused oil

You think a hand blender would work better??

I would go with a everclear tincture, butt my ole lady cant stand the taste of everclear!! Hopefully she gets over this gummie bear kick..
 
Does anybody know the answer to this question.

I f you are preparing a liquid fertiliser to spray on the foliage of the plants what is the correct pH level to set it to?

In all the years, I have only ever seen this question addressed once and I cannot remember the answer or where I saw it written.


If I find the answer I will come back and enter it here for you guys.
 
Does anybody know the answer to this question.

I f you are preparing a liquid fertiliser to spray on the foliage of the plants what is the correct pH level to set it to?

In all the years, I have only ever seen this question addressed once and I cannot remember the answer or where I saw it written.


If I find the answer I will come back and enter it here for you guys.


Foilar Spray pH Source

http://ezinearticles.com/?Five-Easy-Ways-to-Increase-the-Uptake-of-Your-Foliar-Spray&id=1236523

Have Your Foliar Spray pH Balanced - It is a mistake to think that you do not need to measure the pH balance of your foliar spray. Much like your nutrient solution, the pH of your foliar spray should be slightly acidic, with a pH of around 5.8. This will allow the solution to penetrate the film on the leaf and be absorbed much more easily. Make sure you accurately measure your pH and make any adjustments that are necessary with a pharmaceutical grade pH adjuster.
https://www.thcfarmer.com/threads/foilar-spray-ph-info.19494/

Foliar Feeding 101
  • Is foliar feeding the same as foliar spraying? Yes!
  • Should I foliar spray plants? Yes!
  • Can I foliar spray in veg and bloom phases? Yes all through veg but only up to 14 days in bloom.
  • Why can’t I foliar spray all through bloom? You risk premature browning of pistils and bud mold!
  • Should I always add a wetting / delivery agent to my foliar spray? Yes! Saturator is designed to make nutrients, pesticides and fungicides more effective when sprayed on to leaves!
  • Can I foliar spray clones or cuttings? Yes! But make sure to use a dilute spray!
  • Will foliar spraying correct visible elemental deficiencies fast? Yes!
  • Can I replace root feeding with foliar spraying? No! It’s best to do both together.
  • How often should I foliar spray my plants? Once a week in fine. See our feed charts.
  • What’s the best pH for foliar spraying? 6.0 - 7.0 is a good pH range.
  • Should I spray the top and bottom of my leaves? Yes!
  • How much should I foliar spray on the leaves? Just until you get a slight runoff.
When plants are faced with conditions of limited or unbalanced media nutrient availability or sudden elemental deficiencies due to pH fluctuation etc, feeding plants conventionally through the roots may not provide nutritive repair rapidly enough. In these situations, an alternative fast-acting method of providing the much needed nutrients required is called for. Foliar feeding or spraying is a technique in which nutrient solution is applied directly to the plants leaves and is the best method for achieving this rapid nutrient absorption into the plant. While being the center of much debate, foliar feeding has been shown scientifically to significantly improve plant health and yields through the increased absorption of essential elements.

 



Nice, and I like that you thought to put the water bottle in the picture to give us a scale of the size.

Have they finished flowering yet or do they still have a little way left to go and if so how much longer?

I have the same issue with the leaves yellowing like that. At first, I thought it was because I had the lights too close to the plants and had scorched them, but it does not appear to be because of that. I then thought that it was due to not enough Nitrogen being fed to the plants after switching to the bloom/flowering nutrients from the veg/grow nutrients so I blended the nutrients for some time before gradually ceasing to use the veg nutrients but I still have the issue. I have tried Epsom salts both fed to the roots and by foliar feeding but still, I have not overcome the issue.

It is frustrating because when the leaves are like that you know that they are not doing anything and the plant is missing out on gathering energy and photosynthesising.

I can see that you have "lollipopped" the bottom of the plant to allow for air movement.

What you got planned for next???
 
Nice, and I like that you thought to put the water bottle in the picture to give us a scale of the size.

Have they finished flowering yet or do they still have a little way left to go and if so how much longer?

I have the same issue with the leaves yellowing like that. At first, I thought it was because I had the lights too close to the plants and had scorched them, but it does not appear to be because of that. I then thought that it was due to not enough Nitrogen being fed to the plants after switching to the bloom/flowering nutrients from the veg/grow nutrients so I blended the nutrients for some time before gradually ceasing to use the veg nutrients but I still have the issue. I have tried Epsom salts both fed to the roots and by foliar feeding but still, I have not overcome the issue.

It is frustrating because when the leaves are like that you know that they are not doing anything and the plant is missing out on gathering energy and photosynthesising.

I can see that you have "lollipopped" the bottom of the plant to allow for air movement.

What you got planned for next???


So right after veg your leaves start to yellow?
 
So right after veg your leaves start to yellow?

No about 4 weeks into the 12/12 lighting pattern for flowering they start to yellow and eventually dry up and die.

I use the Canna Aqua nutrient range and they say to use the veg/grow nutrients for the first 2 weeks of the 12/12 lighting pattern. I do this and (this time) I have blended the veg and flower nutrients for 2 weeks after this before moving over to the flowering nutrients exclusively. Next time I am planning on buying a bottle of Nitrogen additive so I can administer (N) further into the flowering cycle.
 
Nice, and I like that you thought to put the water bottle in the picture to give us a scale of the size.

Have they finished flowering yet or do they still have a little way left to go and if so how much longer?

I have the same issue with the leaves yellowing like that. At first, I thought it was because I had the lights too close to the plants and had scorched them, but it does not appear to be because of that. I then thought that it was due to not enough Nitrogen being fed to the plants after switching to the bloom/flowering nutrients from the veg/grow nutrients so I blended the nutrients for some time before gradually ceasing to use the veg nutrients but I still have the issue. I have tried Epsom salts both fed to the roots and by foliar feeding but still, I have not overcome the issue.

It is frustrating because when the leaves are like that you know that they are not doing anything and the plant is missing out on gathering energy and photosynthesising.

I can see that you have "lollipopped" the bottom of the plant to allow for air movement.

What you got planned for next???

Thanks bro.

Part of the yellowing is from heat burn I think. The AC went out and temps got up over 90 degrees.

Most of it is the “fade.” The triches were cloudy and most of the “hairs” had turned orange. It was also flushed with plain water for 2 weeks.

It’s chopped and drying right now.
 
Thanks bro.

Part of the yellowing is from heat burn I think. The AC went out and temps got up over 90 degrees.

Most of it is the “fade.” The triches were cloudy and most of the “hairs” had turned orange. It was also flushed with plain water for 2 weeks.

It’s chopped and drying right now.

I'm tending to agree with you on the heat theory. I am hitting the 35C (90F ish) mark on occasions and very low humidity, I don't think it would be so bad if I could get the humidity up.

I usually flush for the last 2 weeks, changing the reservoir at least 4 times during that period. On the last day, 6 hours before the lights go off I drain all the water from the reservoir and when the lights go off I set the temperature to 21C and 50% humidity, turn my oscillating fans down to a medium setting and then walk away from it for a week.

When I return they are dried (but not cured) I then start trimming and manicuring the buds. By leaving the plant as a whole it is able to break down the chloroform which is what gives it that green taste.
 
I'm tending to agree with you on the heat theory. I am hitting the 35C (90F ish) mark on occasions and very low humidity, I don't think it would be so bad if I could get the humidity up.

I usually flush for the last 2 weeks, changing the reservoir at least 4 times during that period. On the last day, 6 hours before the lights go off I drain all the water from the reservoir and when the lights go off I set the temperature to 21C and 50% humidity, turn my oscillating fans down to a medium setting and then walk away from it for a week.

When I return they are dried (but not cured) I then start trimming and manicuring the buds. By leaving the plant as a whole it is able to break down the chloroform which is what gives it that green taste.
You dry then manicure ur buds?
I do it the other way around. See thats the thing about growing...there is always a different technique being used for everybody. I love it
Tomato / To-ma-to
 
Whats happenin brotha's?? Hows life treating everyone and hows everyones flowers?? Im just checkin on the cannabis home and thinking about adding sum more information on the home and get this cannabis thread to be the thread of all threads on bgol!! This cannabis can be a lifesavers for folks on the medical side of things and can open the doors for alot of brotha's and sista's who wanna get into the business side of the cannabis!! Im tryin to get folks to snap outta that dispensary frame of mind and start thinking about having the grow, makin their own product and having a dispensary!! The cannabis and the products are our products!! One of the reason they made cannabis illegal was our ancestors wasnt buying or using none of those products that belong to that fuck face rockerfeller, so they made cannabis illegal so our folks had to buy fuck-face rockerfeller products and his medicine made with oil products!! Anyway, think grow, produce our own medicine and sell it in our own dispensary!!
 
You dry then manicure ur buds?
I do it the other way around. See thats the thing about growing...there is always a different technique being used for everybody. I love it
Tomato / To-ma-to

Somewhere along the 28 years of learning and researching this "hobby" I read that if the plant is left to die naturally e.g. by removing the light and water, rather than by cutting it up then it breaks down the chlorophyll that it contains. Chlorophyll is important to the plant for it to produce cells, but gives it the harsh and "green" taste.
 
Q-Blue (Russell Wilson OG x Lem's Blueberry). Chopped at Day 99.


I like the look of that 4th, it has some nice colours to it.

When you say "Chopped at day 99", is that 99 days of flowering or 99 days since germinating the seed? In which case I am thinking that they are autos?
 
99 days flowering.


Wow, 15,1/2 weeks of 12/12? I respect your patience bro, I thought I was good with 10 and 12 week flower periods. The only strains I have heard that are recommended for 16 weeks are the southeast Asian variety.

I finished one yesterday after 70 days, I have drained the reservoir completely, and the lights are now off. I have set the temperature at 21C and humidity at 60%. I won't go back to it for at least a week before I remove it to start trimming. I lost 2 of the 8 2 weeks ago just before I started flushing because I installed a new pump and put a kink in the feed tube which did not allow any nutrients to pass and I did not notice it until 3/4 of the way through that "day" session but by then the damage was already done. Luckily it was the 2 scrawnier looking plants that looked to be more Sativa than Indica so the remaining ones are nice dense buds.

I will be updating my grow diaries AFTER completing all my remaining tasks for the crop.

***EDIT***

On further inspection of that photo it looks like the buds have actually been "Dipped" in trichomes.

1
 
i used to go buy the standard 8-10 weeks and "recommended" times, but now i wait until the plant tells me she is ready.
i could harvest earlier, but i gained the patience over time to wait. its 1000% worth it.

Wow, 15,1/2 weeks of 12/12? I respect your patience bro, I thought I was good with 10 and 12 week flower periods. The only strains I have heard that are recommended for 16 weeks are the southeast Asian variety.

I finished one yesterday after 70 days, I have drained the reservoir completely, and the lights are now off. I have set the temperature at 21C and humidity at 60%. I won't go back to it for at least a week before I remove it to start trimming. I lost 2 of the 8 2 weeks ago just before I started flushing because I installed a new pump and put a kink in the feed tube which did not allow any nutrients to pass and I did not notice it until 3/4 of the way through that "day" session but by then the damage was already done. Luckily it was the 2 scrawnier looking plants that looked to be more Sativa than Indica so the remaining ones are nice dense buds.

I will be updating my grow diaries AFTER completing all my remaining tasks for the crop.

***EDIT***

On further inspection of that photo it looks like the buds have actually been "Dipped" in trichomes.

1
 
i used to go buy the standard 8-10 weeks and "recommended" times, but now i wait until the plant tells me she is ready.
i could harvest earlier, but i gained the patience over time to wait. its 1000% worth it.


Mos def, I totally agree with your philosophy and practice it myself. My method is probably a bit cruder than yours. If you look at the second picture that I posted (the close up) you can see that the buds have "foxtailed", each of those foxtails are about an inch to an inch and a quarter long and then when you look at the first picture you can see just how many foxtails there are. When I first started growing I was looking through the handheld microscope trying to gauge when the trichomes were going to change colour from clear to milky and then amber, I had to time it with the flush (even back then I cut my teeth on Hydro using the NFT (Nutrient Film Technique). The problem is that if you want to have a good period to flush (I like to flush for a minimum of 10 days but prefer 14) you need to guess/predict when the trichomes are going to change appearance to start the flush at the correct time for it all to synchronise. I waited patiently for the trichomes to change the first couple of times but never noticed a difference. So I have given up looking out for the resin to change colour and judge my flush based on the bud development/maturity. When you do time it right the buds increase in size by 25% in the last 2 weeks, why would you want to miss out on that growth spurt?
 
If the trichs don't change, it probably isn't ready.

Mos def, I totally agree with your philosophy and practice it myself. My method is probably a bit cruder than yours. If you look at the second picture that I posted (the close up) you can see that the buds have "foxtailed", each of those foxtails are about an inch to an inch and a quarter long and then when you look at the first picture you can see just how many foxtails there are. When I first started growing I was looking through the handheld microscope trying to gauge when the trichomes were going to change colour from clear to milky and then amber, I had to time it with the flush (even back then I cut my teeth on Hydro using the NFT (Nutrient Film Technique). The problem is that if you want to have a good period to flush (I like to flush for a minimum of 10 days but prefer 14) you need to guess/predict when the trichomes are going to change appearance to start the flush at the correct time for it all to synchronise. I waited patiently for the trichomes to change the first couple of times but never noticed a difference. So I have given up looking out for the resin to change colour and judge my flush based on the bud development/maturity. When you do time it right the buds increase in size by 25% in the last 2 weeks, why would you want to miss out on that growth spurt?
 
If the trichs don't change, it probably isn't ready.

I believe I have a problem with Canna's nutrient regime and it needs fine tuning. By the end of the 5th week of flowering my fan leaves have started yellowing which progressively gets worse and by the end of week 8 they are totally yellow and have dried and shriveled up and the lightest pull on them frees them from the stem. I think that it is due to a nitrogen deficiency. Canna recommends using the veg/grow nutrients for the first 2 weeks of 12/12 and then switching over to the flower/bloom nutrients. To try to overcome my problem I follow this but now I am experimenting with blending the 2 types of nutrients over the next few weeks. So for example the third week I might blend the nutrient solution by mixing 75% veg/grow and 25% flower/bloom, then on the fourth week a 50/50 blend and on the fifth week a blend of 25% veg/grow and 75% flower/bloom. As of yet I still have the same issues. On my next grow I am planning on buying a liter of Nitrogen from Canna's "mono" range and following Cann's recommended procedure but supplementing it with the Nitrogen.

The plant in the picture is not typical of the other plants that are out of the shot. In the first photo, the plant to the right of the plant centered in the photo is suffering from yellowed leaves but it is by no means the worst case scenario.

I believe this is a big contributing factor as to why the trichomes are not maturing in a recommended time frame. The leaves absorb the photons from the light and a process begins to convert them to sugars for the plant to use as energy. If the plant does not have the tools in the correct condition (e.g. lush green leaves) then it cannot photosynthesise to its full capabilities. So even though the plants have flowered for 10 weeks if the photosynthesis rate is only running at 75% then theoretically they have only matured to a rate equivalent to 7.5 weeks.

Just my thoughts and reasonings as I work through the logical ideas before I change to more drastic measures like taking a piss in the reservoir!

"Recent scientific studies have shown urine is a safe and very effective fertilizer for cabbage, beets, cucumbers, and tomatoes, and pretty much anything else you want to grow. Urine boasts a nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium (N-P-K) ratio of 10:1:4, plus more modest amounts of the trace elements plants need to thrive." 22 Sept 2015
 
some plants lose fans faster than others.
when i ran hydro, i used to run into all kinds of problems, mostly nutrient deficiencies. on the flip side, it was also very easy to over feed. overfeeding causes problems too. throws the balance of the plants off. i also see alot of plants posted with nitrogen toxicity.
keep trying to tell you guys to get off those synthetic nutes.

I believe I have a problem with Canna's nutrient regime and it needs fine tuning. By the end of the 5th week of flowering my fan leaves have started yellowing which progressively gets worse and by the end of week 8 they are totally yellow and have dried and shriveled up and the lightest pull on them frees them from the stem. I think that it is due to a nitrogen deficiency. Canna recommends using the veg/grow nutrients for the first 2 weeks of 12/12 and then switching over to the flower/bloom nutrients. To try to overcome my problem I follow this but now I am experimenting with blending the 2 types of nutrients over the next few weeks. So for example the third week I might blend the nutrient solution by mixing 75% veg/grow and 25% flower/bloom, then on the fourth week a 50/50 blend and on the fifth week a blend of 25% veg/grow and 75% flower/bloom. As of yet I still have the same issues. On my next grow I am planning on buying a liter of Nitrogen from Canna's "mono" range and following Cann's recommended procedure but supplementing it with the Nitrogen.

The plant in the picture is not typical of the other plants that are out of the shot. In the first photo, the plant to the right of the plant centered in the photo is suffering from yellowed leaves but it is by no means the worst case scenario.

I believe this is a big contributing factor as to why the trichomes are not maturing in a recommended time frame. The leaves absorb the photons from the light and a process begins to convert them to sugars for the plant to use as energy. If the plant does not have the tools in the correct condition (e.g. lush green leaves) then it cannot photosynthesise to its full capabilities. So even though the plants have flowered for 10 weeks if the photosynthesis rate is only running at 75% then theoretically they have only matured to a rate equivalent to 7.5 weeks.

Just my thoughts and reasonings as I work through the logical ideas before I change to more drastic measures like taking a piss in the reservoir!

"Recent scientific studies have shown urine is a safe and very effective fertilizer for cabbage, beets, cucumbers, and tomatoes, and pretty much anything else you want to grow. Urine boasts a nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium (N-P-K) ratio of 10:1:4, plus more modest amounts of the trace elements plants need to thrive." 22 Sept 2015
 
I just saw something interesting on this video.

The guy is germinating cherry seeds which he puts in the fridge for some months to complete the process. I thought this was strange because as part of my germinating process I put them on top of the central heating boiler which gives a good warmth which I have found helps the process. This guy adds CINNAMON to the tissue paper to prevent moulds and fungi. If you don't know, Cinnamon has anti-fungicidal properties.

 
I just saw something interesting on this video.

The guy is germinating cherry seeds which he puts in the fridge for some months to complete the process. I thought this was strange because as part of my germinating process I put them on top of the central heating boiler which gives a good warmth which I have found helps the process. This guy adds CINNAMON to the tissue paper to prevent moulds and fungi. If you don't know, Cinnamon has anti-fungicidal properties.


MY lady wa sprinkling Cinnamon on the trash to reduce flies. :thumbsup: Works well so far, guess their is more uses for stuff that's just waiting to found.
 
some plants lose fans faster than others.
when i ran hydro, i used to run into all kinds of problems, mostly nutrient deficiencies. on the flip side, it was also very easy to over feed. overfeeding causes problems too. throws the balance of the plants off. i also see alot of plants posted with nitrogen toxicity.
keep trying to tell you guys to get off those synthetic nutes.


I am not trying to sound flippant when I say this, but do you know of a nutrient brand that manufactures non-synthetic nutrients that can be used in a hydroponic setup, specifically NFT (nutrient film technique)?
 
I am not trying to sound flippant when I say this, but do you know of a nutrient brand that manufactures non-synthetic nutrients that can be used in a hydroponic setup, specifically NFT (nutrient film technique)?


How about this one?

51hEYZ72tCL._AC_SY780_.jpg
 
All good man.
No, I don't. There were a couple of brands that I tried that marketed as organic hydro, but the plants performed like shit. At the end of the day, you want the microbes that are in the soil.
Also, just a quick update...
The One x White Cherry Truffle is killer smoke.
The Q-Blue is good, but doesn't stand out IMO.
The Poison Mimosa, it's special. Definitely a sativa, uplifting high. Not heavy at all. Puts you in a very positive and happy state of mind. Great weed for hanging with your friends.
I am not trying to sound flippant when I say this, but do you know of a nutrient brand that manufactures non-synthetic nutrients that can be used in a hydroponic setup, specifically NFT (nutrient film technique)?
 
All good man.
No, I don't. There were a couple of brands that I tried that marketed as organic hydro, but the plants performed like shit. At the end of the day, you want the microbes that are in the soil.
Also, just a quick update...
The One x White Cherry Truffle is killer smoke.
The Q-Blue is good, but doesn't stand out IMO.
The Poison Mimosa, it's special. Definitely a sativa, uplifting high. Not heavy at all. Puts you in a very positive and happy state of mind. Great weed for hanging with your friends.




Your Poison Mimosa sounds very similar to how I would describe my Orange Diesel V3.0. Definitely more sativa than indica with that uplifting clear headed buzz. As much as I smoke and it will not put me to sleep.
 
Back
Top