THE CANNABIS THREAD 101!!

You ever tried to make it with glycerin? That is preferred with people who don't want to use alcohol. Probably worth trying out.
You can buy medical grade on Amazon. I considered it, but just stuck with Everclear.

I hear ya!! Ive learned to deal with it.. Its those I give sum tincture too, they have sum something to say about it!! I try to tell them them, the burn is only for a minute if that!!
 
You ever tried to make it with glycerin? That is preferred with people who don't want to use alcohol. Probably worth trying out.
You can buy medical grade on Amazon. I considered it, but just stuck with Everclear.

Nah, I never tried glycerin. Ive always thought everclear was your most powerful tincture.. My next grow, Ill try the glycerin tincture and compare them.. What I would like to do is, make a everclear tincture and then put about 10 grams in it and then place it somewhere dark for about 2-4yrs! Then see what it will taste like..
 
Lol. That shit might kill you!
But yeah, the glycerin should be fine. The only benefit to using alcohol is that shit hits your bloodstream instantly. At the end of the day, you want to feel the cannabis, not the alcohol.
I think I'm going with glycerin next time because my cousin uses my tincture for his son. I don't really want that alcohol in his system.

Nah, I never tried glycerin. Ive always thought everclear was your most powerful tincture.. My next grow, Ill try the glycerin tincture and compare them.. What I would like to do is, make a everclear tincture and then put about 10 grams in it and then place it somewhere dark for about 2-4yrs! Then see what it will taste like..
 
Lol. That shit might kill you!
But yeah, the glycerin should be fine. The only benefit to using alcohol is that shit hits your bloodstream instantly. At the end of the day, you want to feel the cannabis, not the alcohol.
I think I'm going with glycerin next time because my cousin uses my tincture for his son. I don't really want that alcohol in his system.

Your right, it might blend me into the couch or chair. If you make sum with glycerin, let me know how it turns out.. Im always thinking and reading on the ways you can turn cannabis out!! I dont mind smoking it, but I enjoy the feeling I get from eating or drinking buds..
 
Nope still found some more bugs

jus keep sprayin

I was looking at this site for a product to recommend to somebody and saw this "Nuke 'Em".
It stated:
"Be wary of insecticides made with oils because they plug the plant’s stomata which causes the photosynthetic process to slow. This causes slower plant growth and makes it harder for the plant to recover from insect attack. This is why your plants’ growth slow or become stunted after you sprayed with oil and detergent-based products. These concentrated plant oils include Neem, Rosemary, Soybean, Canola, et al. "

8 oz Nuke Em®
 
I was looking at this site for a product to recommend to somebody and saw this "Nuke 'Em".
It stated:
"Be wary of insecticides made with oils because they plug the plant’s stomata which causes the photosynthetic process to slow. This causes slower plant growth and makes it harder for the plant to recover from insect attack. This is why your plants’ growth slow or become stunted after you sprayed with oil and detergent-based products. These concentrated plant oils include Neem, Rosemary, Soybean, Canola, et al. "

8 oz Nuke Em®
Man I bombed my attic, the garage

do you use nuke tho

I got 4 more buckets, just set up 5 in buckets

they hold up to the spray I use but I’m look into the nuke shit

I got too much time and doe for some fuckin lil bug to be fuckin with me
 
Man I bombed my attic, the garage

do you use nuke tho

I got 4 more buckets, just set up 5 in buckets

they hold up to the spray I use but I’m look into the nuke shit

I got too much time and doe for some fuckin lil bug to be fuckin with me

No I don't use Nuke Em. I was introduced to another one of their products "Carbon Copy" but it is called "RTU Rooting Compound" in North America. I am more than impressed with Carbon Copy and will be seriously looking into the rest of their products. I just read an article on their nutrient delivery method. I will definitely be keeping an eye on this company because they could be on some ground breaking technology and methods. I will be reading what is said about their growing nutrients on the growing forums before jumping in.

I have used a product called "Ultimate Bug Killer" that is available in the local B&Q (i guess it would be a Home Depot for you guys) by a company called Bayer Provado.
Bayer Provado Ultimate Bug Killer 1 Litre Spray: Amazon.co.uk: Garden & Outdoors

But I have a secret weapon which is the Dynamec if things get to bad, which so far they have not.
DYNAMEC 250ml (dejex.co.uk)

I hear you regarding "too much time and doe for some fuckin lil bug to be fuckin with me", I started a year ago and have not bought a harvest in yet. I have had equipment failure, mishaps, bad stock that should have been binned but I was persistently stubborn refusing to give in and feel beaten and then on 21st December 2020 I forgot to plug my fan controller back in after resetting it and was away for 2 days. When I returned I had roasted everything, the hygrometers stopped registering the temperature at 70c. Fucked up all my C'bis and all my Mums house plants that I was over wintering for her. Fucked up her Orchids, I was in the dog house for a minute.
 
No I don't use Nuke Em. I was introduced to another one of their products "Carbon Copy" but it is called "RTU Rooting Compound" in North America. I am more than impressed with Carbon Copy and will be seriously looking into the rest of their products. I just read an article on their nutrient delivery method. I will definitely be keeping an eye on this company because they could be on some ground breaking technology and methods. I will be reading what is said about their growing nutrients on the growing forums before jumping in.

I have used a product called "Ultimate Bug Killer" that is available in the local B&Q (i guess it would be a Home Depot for you guys) by a company called Bayer Provado.
Bayer Provado Ultimate Bug Killer 1 Litre Spray: Amazon.co.uk: Garden & Outdoors

But I have a secret weapon which is the Dynamec if things get to bad, which so far they have not.
DYNAMEC 250ml (dejex.co.uk)

I hear you regarding "too much time and doe for some fuckin lil bug to be fuckin with me", I started a year ago and have not bought a harvest in yet. I have had equipment failure, mishaps, bad stock that should have been binned but I was persistently stubborn refusing to give in and feel beaten and then on 21st December 2020 I forgot to plug my fan controller back in after resetting it and was away for 2 days. When I returned I had roasted everything, the hygrometers stopped registering the temperature at 70c. Fucked up all my C'bis and all my Mums house plants that I was over wintering for her. Fucked up her Orchids, I was in the dog house for a minute.
We got one harvest outta the first batch
I made clones from those, that was over a yr ago
Then the bugs hit, but they didn’t show up until our cat came in garage
I was thinkin he brings them
The clones became the ones I’m still strugglin with
After they made it through the first few treatments I clipped clones off them
Those are the ones I have now
Looks like two different strains, I lost which is which when I was tryin to save them
I have noticed how the oils slow the plant up
I have a closet where I grow clones and plants that get bigger then I move them to the room I made in garage
I still have to make sure the air temp is good and that was a fight cause my garage is hot af I even put up insulation
But there is no air flow outside the room
So my bro and I will run 4in duct from the indoor grow room floor through attic and back in garage
I got a 4in duct fan to move that cooler air
The fan inside the room is an infinity one, has the controls on it, bitch live

Only got one harvest since fall 2019
 
We got one harvest outta the first batch
I made clones from those, that was over a yr ago
Then the bugs hit, but they didn’t show up until our cat came in garage
I was thinkin he brings them
The clones became the ones I’m still strugglin with
After they made it through the first few treatments I clipped clones off them
Those are the ones I have now
Looks like two different strains, I lost which is which when I was tryin to save them
I have noticed how the oils slow the plant up
I have a closet where I grow clones and plants that get bigger then I move them to the room I made in garage
I still have to make sure the air temp is good and that was a fight cause my garage is hot af I even put up insulation
But there is no air flow outside the room
So my bro and I will run 4in duct from the indoor grow room floor through attic and back in garage
I got a 4in duct fan to move that cooler air
The fan inside the room is an infinity one, has the controls on it, bitch live

Only got one harvest since fall 2019

Have you downloaded the book I posted? It is stickied above, it has a whole chapter on air and ventilation, pages 311-340. A rule of thumb is that your extraction fan should be powerful enough to change the air on the room 20 times each hour. So if your area is 3m x 2m x 2m total is 12m cubed so your fan needs to be rated at at least 240m3/hour then you need to allow for airflow restrictions such as carbon filter/scrubber and any bends in the ducting, you will be surprised how much one 90 degree bend reduces the airflow, it is important to keep the air route as straight as possible. I use an 8inch/200mm rated at 796m3 for extraction and my intake is a 6inch/150mm rated at 680m3/hr. The intake needs to be 2/3rds the power of the extract. If you use a fan controller (which I advise) check to see if it can offset the fans so you could use 2 identically specced fans or whether you need to fit 2 fans of the correct specs.

I have my lights on at night to combat heat issues and use a small oil radiator to keep my minimum temperatures at night (lights off) where I need them to be. I have finished and harvested during summer when my "lights on" temperatures where 35c and still got my average yield. If you are growing in water so hydro, dwc etc try using a chiller, as long as the roots have access to cool water/nutrients the plants will be happy in the higher temperatures. Before I bought a nutrient/aquarium chiller I used to freeze numerous 2 litre bottles every day and put the in the reservoir to keep it cooler.

I am not familiar with Infinity fans, I use Systemair RVKs but nowadays there are many more available so if I was buying new ones I would definitely do my homework on the EC (as opposed to AC).

RVK - Circular duct fans - Fans & Accessories - Systemair

You can also have higher temperatures (actually it is advised) if you use supplemental CO2, but that is a totally different ball game which is worthy of its own thread. People hear that than can speed up the harvest time by up to 30% but you really do need to know what you are doing and have everything dialled in correctly because not only are you turbo charging your garden you are also turbo charging any and all the problems that you may encounter.

*** If you are in the market for a fan controller let me know. I am currently having issues with electrical buzzing/humming with my fans and am learning that not all fans are compatible with all fan control units. I had to go out yesterday and get a new unit***
 
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End of day 31. Probably the halfway point but we'll see...

Poison Mimosa


Q-Blue


The One x White Cherry Truffle



They look really good. The "The One x White Cherry Truffle" look really chunky. How are you going to determine when to harvest? Are you counting the days as recommended on the packet or are you monitoring the trichomes? If you are counting the days (if you have the time) may I suggest letting them go an additional 14 days. I think you will be surprised and happy with the results.

I used to do this with my White Widows from Nirvana seeds. The packet said 8 weeks but I used to let them run for 10 weeks. The 2 extra weeks had the buds fox tailing like crazy not to mention that in the last 14 days they bulk up by 25% so I always feel the those 2 additional weeks are justified. The buds just seem so much fuller, the colours more enriched crazy frosty trichomes.

Just a suggestion though you do you. You are definitely doing something correct.
 
i appreciate the feedback.
those 8-10 week guidelines are just that, guidelines. they put 8 weeks because people want early harvests, lol. i find that most hybrids arent ready until at least 63 days, or 9 weeks. not all, but most. and that is at least 63 days. some strains are much, much better after 11-12 weeks, but they dont advertise 12 weeks.
to specifically answer your question, i do count the days, but more so i just read the plants. i check the trichomes with a scope, that is probably the main factor, but i also take into account the overall plant, the smell, the swell, lol. you just know.
and sometimes i want a racier high, so i harvest on the early side. typically if it is sativa dominant i will do that. i let the indica dominants get more amber and red hairs.
the one thing i dont do, is rush. that is a potency killer. let them finish proper. i'll continue to update these plants until harvest. feel free to comment anytime. PEACE


They look really good. The "The One x White Cherry Truffle" look really chunky. How are you going to determine when to harvest? Are you counting the days as recommended on the packet or are you monitoring the trichomes? If you are counting the days (if you have the time) may I suggest letting them go an additional 14 days. I think you will be surprised and happy with the results.

I used to do this with my White Widows from Nirvana seeds. The packet said 8 weeks but I used to let them run for 10 weeks. The 2 extra weeks had the buds fox tailing like crazy not to mention that in the last 14 days they bulk up by 25% so I always feel the those 2 additional weeks are justified. The buds just seem so much fuller, the colours more enriched crazy frosty trichomes.

Just a suggestion though you do you. You are definitely doing something correct.
 
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i appreciate the feedback.
those 8-10 week guidelines are just that, guidelines. they put 8 weeks because people want early harvests, lol. i find that most hybrids arent ready until at least 63 days, or 9 weeks. not all, but most. and that is at least 63 days. some strains are much, much better after 11-12 weeks, but they dont advertise 12 weeks.
to specifically answer your question, i do count the days, but more so i just read the plants. i check the trichomes with a scope, that is probably the main factor, but i also take into account the overall plant, the smell, the swell, lol. you just know.
and sometimes i want a racier high, so i harvest on the early side. typically if it is sativa dominant i will do that. i let the indica dominants get more amber and red hairs.
the one thing i dont do, is rush. that is a potency killer. let them finish proper. i'll continue to update these plants until harvest. feel free to comment anytime. PEACE

From that answer I know you know what you are doing you have done this more than a few times. Good note and analysis regarding the advertised "8 weeks".

Are you aware that the trichomes change colour from clear to milky to amber as the plant is ready for harvest and depending on what type of high you are after is when you harvest.

"The best gauge of peak ripeness is the color of the resin glands or trichomes.

Resin glands change colors as they ripen. At first, glands are clear. As they continue to mature, they turn a translucent milky color and, finally, they turn amber. Resin glands that are bruised from being squeezed or jostled about deteriorate quickly. All glands do not change color simultaneously on the same bud or plant. The process is gradual, and individual resin glands change atdifferent rates. Of course there are exceptions such as the strain ‘Blueberry,’ which bears darker, even purplish resin glands.

To get a close-up look at resin glands, use a 10X magnifying glass, jeweler’s loupe, or a 20-50X hand-held microscope. My preference is a 30X hand-held microscope with a battery-powered lamp used by stamp collectors. Look at resin glands without harvesting buds, or take a small, thin, resinous portion of a ripe bud and place it under the microscope at a low 30X magnification setting. If the microscope does not have a lamp, a flashlight will be necessary for an un-shadowed view. Resin gland development will be in one of three stages–clear, translucent or milky white, and amber.Harvest when the majority of glands are clear and a few glands have started to turn milky white. Harvesting plants too early, before a few of the glands turn milky, will make them less psychoactive, because they hold less THC. Harvesting at this point will yield a cerebral, soaring, heady stone. The body will be less affected. Pure sativa and sativa-dominant strains are perfect for this harvest scenario.

A trichome is a “plant hair.” The trichomes found on drug cannabis are glandular and secretory in character. These stalked glandular trichomes are comprised of a stalk with a resin head. They look like a post with the knob at the top. They form on buds and small leaves. The highest concentration of THC is located at the base of the resin head. The best time to harvest is when these trichomes have developed a spherical head and are transparent to creamy white. Senescing glands start to turn amber and later brown and get smaller; they are decomposing, and THC content diminishes. Check buds every day starting the sixth week of flowering. Check several buds from different plants to ensure the maximum amount of trichomes are ripe for harvest. Cystolith trichomes have a pointed tip and are often long and hairlike.These protective trichomes are most common on leaf undersides. Cystolith glands exude insecticidal and miticidal substances to gum up pest mouthparts and repel them, but they have no THC.

Harvest when half (50 percent) of the trichomes have turned a creamy translucent color for absolute peak ripeness. At this point, the high will be both cerebral and physical with a good head and body stone. Harvest when the majority of trichomes have turned amber for a body stone. Pure indica, afghani, and indica-dominant strains harvested at this late point will possess a heavy body, or couch-lock, stone. Waiting to harvest pure sativa and sativa-dominant varieties until this stage will not take advantage of the strains. Such strains are best harvested when resin glands are clear to milky colored.
"

If you have a copy of the book then these are quotes from pages 81-84

if you downloaded the pdf then pages 213-218

 
We got one harvest outta the first batch
I made clones from those, that was over a yr ago
Then the bugs hit, but they didn’t show up until our cat came in garage
I was thinkin he brings them
The clones became the ones I’m still strugglin with
After they made it through the first few treatments I clipped clones off them
Those are the ones I have now
Looks like two different strains, I lost which is which when I was tryin to save them
I have noticed how the oils slow the plant up
I have a closet where I grow clones and plants that get bigger then I move them to the room I made in garage
I still have to make sure the air temp is good and that was a fight cause my garage is hot af I even put up insulation
But there is no air flow outside the room
So my bro and I will run 4in duct from the indoor grow room floor through attic and back in garage
I got a 4in duct fan to move that cooler air
The fan inside the room is an infinity one, has the controls on it, bitch live

Only got one harvest since fall 2019

Get mosquito bites Summit Responsible Solutions Mosquito Bits - Quick Kill, 30 Ounce Amazon product ASIN B0001AUF8G
And some lady bugs3000
Pre-Fed Live Ladybugs | BuddyBugs | Hippodamia Convergens | Guaranteed Live Delivery | Targets Aphids, Moth Eggs, Mites, Scales, Thrips, Leafhoppers, Mealybugs and Other Insects + THCity Stakes Amazon product ASIN B07YX9V4JJ
no more insect pest problems
 

mr bean animated download



This is the first clone I put in the bucket, no new bugs for now, I’m lookin everyday

I set up the splant pump, says it can do like 8+ plants but the more tube you use the less the plants away from pump get less water

so I’ll just use it for 2 plants I got another pump

got the cal mag shit and some more ph up shit

I topped it after week 2 and that bitch spread out quick in one week
 

mr bean animated download



This is the first clone I put in the bucket, no new bugs for now, I’m lookin everyday

I set up the splant pump, says it can do like 8+ plants but the more tube you use the less the plants away from pump get less water

so I’ll just use it for 2 plants I got another pump

got the cal mag shit and some more ph up shit

I topped it after week 2 and that bitch spread out quick in one week

Looking good @SamSneed, the leaves look nice and active by week 3, they are standing nicely horizontal. I like the way that you have simply presented the photos with "WEEK#", I was thinking of taking photos weekly unless there are any problems or issues. Why don't you start a thread, do a "grow diary" Tell us what strain you are growing, what nutrients you are using and what strength you have diluted them to, the pH of the solution, temperature of the solution, temperature and humidity of the grow area (lights on/lights of) what problems you are having.

I have a spreadsheet that I created I will upload it. By completing a daily record it helps to get you in good practice to getting in to a routine to do your chores.

When you say that you topped it do you mean that you removed the main vertical stem that everything grows from?

re: the tubing.

So I am guessing that the pump connects to a manifold that you connect the tubing to for it to deliver the nutrient solution to a plant/s.

  • Attach all the tubes and have all the tubes delivering nutrient solution to the plants, so some plants may have 2 or 3 tubes delivering to the pot that they are in, this will also keep the pressure equal as long as all the tubes are the same height,
  • as long as the tubes are the same diameter the same volume of water will pass through each tube, the difference in length is negligible ,
  • water (like air) will travel the path of least resistance,
  • I would suggest getting a timer for the pump, digital 7 day event ones are good because you can control it to the minute. If you leave the pump on continuously your roots will become "lazy" (there is a thing called lazy roots, google it. By dialling in the correct feeding schedule you will keep the roots growing, there is a direct relationship between the size of the root zone (rhizosphere) and the size of the quantity of fruit/flowers you plant produces. I have a little saying regarding this business/hobby. Grow good roots and good trichomes will follow, everything else in buy-product.
Digital & Day Event Timer

When trying to work out the feeding schedule (Using NFT) I would time how long it took for the entire table to get saturated (remembering to use a spreader mat, I like to have a at least 4 layers to also give the roots something to grow into), allow for about a 15% run-off and that is the length of time you need to programme your timer to come on for. Now you need to work out how frequently to run your timer. The idea is for the area to "Dry out" encouraging the roots to push out in search of water but you need to feed it before the plant starts to dry out and die. I'll have a look at the "bible" a bit later and see if I can recommend/suggest any relevant pages.
 
Looking good @SamSneed, the leaves look nice and active by week 3, they are standing nicely horizontal. I like the way that you have simply presented the photos with "WEEK#", I was thinking of taking photos weekly unless there are any problems or issues. Why don't you start a thread, do a "grow diary" Tell us what strain you are growing, what nutrients you are using and what strength you have diluted them to, the pH of the solution, temperature of the solution, temperature and humidity of the grow area (lights on/lights of) what problems you are having.

I have a spreadsheet that I created I will upload it. By completing a daily record it helps to get you in good practice to getting in to a routine to do your chores.

When you say that you topped it do you mean that you removed the main vertical stem that everything grows from?

re: the tubing.

So I am guessing that the pump connects to a manifold that you connect the tubing to for it to deliver the nutrient solution to a plant/s.

  • Attach all the tubes and have all the tubes delivering nutrient solution to the plants, so some plants may have 2 or 3 tubes delivering to the pot that they are in, this will also keep the pressure equal as long as all the tubes are the same height,
  • as long as the tubes are the same diameter the same volume of water will pass through each tube, the difference in length is negligible ,
  • water (like air) will travel the path of least resistance,
  • I would suggest getting a timer for the pump, digital 7 day event ones are good because you can control it to the minute. If you leave the pump on continuously your roots will become "lazy" (there is a thing called lazy roots, google it. By dialling in the correct feeding schedule you will keep the roots growing, there is a direct relationship between the size of the root zone (rhizosphere) and the size of the quantity of fruit/flowers you plant produces. I have a little saying regarding this business/hobby. Grow good roots and good trichomes will follow, everything else in buy-product.
Digital & Day Event Timer

When trying to work out the feeding schedule (Using NFT) I would time how long it took for the entire table to get saturated (remembering to use a spreader mat, I like to have a at least 4 layers to also give the roots something to grow into), allow for about a 15% run-off and that is the length of time you need to programme your timer to come on for. Now you need to work out how frequently to run your timer. The idea is for the area to "Dry out" encouraging the roots to push out in search of water but you need to feed it before the plant starts to dry out and die. I'll have a look at the "bible" a bit later and see if I can recommend/suggest any relevant pages.
Thanks man

Sorry man I tend to speak and type here very short handed

ok, the tube goin into c pebs is the air, it’s the root spa bucket

has a water level tube on the side, it can be used to top off the water

I put one clone in dirt and set that hoe outside, it’s gonna have to fend for itself lol

Looks like I got both indica and sativa

sativa clones grow faster and their roots grow grow

every single indica clone take a long time to grow roots

they grow these funny lookin clumps around the stem in water , then some slime and algae grows on it
 
Into my 3rd week of blooming and my girls are almost outgrown my tent! I let them veg for like 6 weeks...I know the stretch a lil bit during blooming but damn! Well at least my harvest gonna be very decent.


"Outgrown the tent?" @baboss2212 "hold my beer!"


@baboss2212 & @fourthstbully, the only problem with those "burple" lights is you cannot see the colour of the leaves, so I cannot see if their are any deficiencies or necrosis to advise you of any help, maybe you would like to also add a photo with the light off and just use the flash. I just want to help you get the best possible from what you are doing.

Development looks good though.
 
you need to either raise that light, or bend those tops down so that they are under the light. if possible, raise the light tho. you dont want the top buds too close to the light.

Into my 3rd week of blooming and my girls are almost outgrown my tent! I let them veg for like 6 weeks...I know the stretch a lil bit during blooming but damn! Well at least my harvest gonna be very decent.
 
Yeah I did both raise and bent em! Lol. Yeah I really don't have any more room to raise the lights thats the issue. But I done tied em down like LST.

How about clamp lights like I use as supplemental light? That frame looks perfect for that.the way you can angle them helps alot.i paid eight bucks each plus tax For the clamp light fixtures,bout seven bucks for 4 pack of led bulbs.


:dunno:
 
not sure i fully understand the question, but like i said, led's dont spread and depending on the wattage, you want them about 20 inches over your buds in the flowering stage. sorry if that was not helpful.

I didn't know that, thanks for the info.

What is the light penetration like through the canopy?
 
not sure i fully understand the question, but like i said, led's dont spread and depending on the wattage, you want them about 20 inches over your buds in the flowering stage. sorry if that was not helpful.

I have only used HIDs but am seriously looking into LED's (specifically a British company called Invisible Sun because they have a high umol and have supplemental UV and Far red), because of less heat and electrical consumption. When I use a 600 watt HID I get nicely formed buds throughout the canopy from the top going down about 12 inches but then they get a bit wispy, if I use a 1000 watt HID the odd buds that are at the base of the plants are still fully matured. Now I know the the 1000 watt gives of significantly more lumens than the 600 watt and with HIDs the lumens depreciate exponentially every 12 inches, how do LED's compare with lumens dropping of over distance from the source.

This is a genuine question, I am not trying to be a clever bugger. If you do not know that's cool I will do my homework when I have some time and come back and "@" you to share with you.

 
got it. i use a 600w led in a flowering tent. it penetrates up to two feet, in addition to the 20 inches from the top of the plant. i am pretty sure i read that when i bought that light.
i have to use led's in my current space because my grow room runs hot as it is. i might switch over to a cmh though, just to compare.

I have only used HIDs but am seriously looking into LED's (specifically a British company called Invisible Sun because they have a high umol and have supplemental UV and Far red), because of less heat and electrical consumption. When I use a 600 watt HID I get nicely formed buds throughout the canopy from the top going down about 12 inches but then they get a bit wispy, if I use a 1000 watt HID the odd buds that are at the base of the plants are still fully matured. Now I know the the 1000 watt gives of significantly more lumens than the 600 watt and with HIDs the lumens depreciate exponentially every 12 inches, how do LED's compare with lumens dropping of over distance from the source.

This is a genuine question, I am not trying to be a clever bugger. If you do not know that's cool I will do my homework when I have some time and come back and "@" you to share with you.

 
got it. i use a 600w led in a flowering tent. it penetrates up to two feet, in addition to the 20 inches from the top of the plant. i am pretty sure i read that when i bought that light.
i have to use led's in my current space because my grow room runs hot as it is. i might switch over to a cmh though, just to compare.

So you can fully mature a 24 inch canopy? Cool, I usually have my canopy about 12-16 inches thick.

Another quick question, when you say 600 watt LED is that 600 watt of power consumption or equivalent lumen output of a 600 watt HID?
 
got it. i use a 600w led in a flowering tent. it penetrates up to two feet, in addition to the 20 inches from the top of the plant. i am pretty sure i read that when i bought that light.
i have to use led's in my current space because my grow room runs hot as it is. i might switch over to a cmh though, just to compare.

what is your dry weight per light?
 
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