THE CANNABIS THREAD 101!!

I chose the maxisun for price, light coverage, and the Samsung diodes. It works off a ratcheting rope system, so height adjustment isn’t a problem.

I plan on finishing the plants in at least a 3 gallon bag. I’ve got a few 5 gallons.

I got more research to do regarding the intake fan. Thats on my agenda for this week.

Yeah the Samsung 301 diodes are the kit you need paired with Meanwell drivers. Over the last couple of weeks I have noticed manufacturers claiming to use he new Samsung 301s. Samsung have upgraded the 301s so the previous ones were "B"s and the newer ones are "H"s.

When it comes to watering, little and often, so you do not have sodden roots and high humidity, also watering is not only to deliver water and nutrients to the pants but to push stale air out of the medium and draw fresh air in.
 
Gotdamn spider mites fucked me

made a mix, hoes gonna die

Ah mate you got "the Borg", nasty little fuckers, breed quicker than rabbits.

First time I got them I binned all the plants bleached and steamed everything twice emptied the room I was working in washed the curtains steam cleaned the carpet and then rebuilt the system.

There are under the counter products (in the UK) I have some but it is in an unlabelled container but i do know what it is give me some time to do some homework.

Smoke bombs out of your regular gardening centre work well and if memory serves me right neem oil. If you look in my posts above their is a link to a pdf download I am sure that there is a section on spider mites.
 
Ah mate you got "the Borg", nasty little fuckers, breed quicker than rabbits.

First time I got them I binned all the plants bleached and steamed everything twice emptied the room I was working in washed the curtains steam cleaned the carpet and then rebuilt the system.

There are under the counter products (in the UK) I have some but it is in an unlabelled container but i do know what it is give me some time to do some homework.

Smoke bombs out of your regular gardening centre work well and if memory serves me right neem oil. If you look in my posts above their is a link to a pdf download I am sure that there is a section on spider mites.
I made some natural shit, oils and soap dawn

killed those fuckers

I’m good at clones and the start up

I suck at maintenance
 
I made some natural shit, oils and soap dawn

killed those fuckers

I’m good at clones and the start up

I suck at maintenance


Sorry mate 16:00hrs my lights come on so I like to be out there to make sure things are all working and to make any adjustments to the EC and pH of the reservoir before the first feed at 16:30.

(Red) spider mites are nasty, they are sexually mature at a very early age and produce 100 eggs each time, 25 males and 75 females. Also our optimum conditions are their perfect condition to live.

I would recommend treating your garden 3 times, allowing a week between each treatment. The first treatment will kill the majority of mite but may not get them all or kill the eggs, the second one should get the survivors of the first treatment and any eggs that have survived and hatched, the third is really just preventative maintenance but well worth doing to catch any young ones the have hatched from eggs that survived he second, Spray everything not just the plants everything! I cannot emphasise enough, everything! EVRYTHING even the ceiling and it you are using tent remember to do behind the flaps where the seams for the zips are.

I bought a steamer to get into those flaps, it only needs on pregnant female to survive and you will have to go through it all again.

Another method which will curb insect mould and fungi is UV butt you need to know what you are doing. Adding UV lighting benefits in several ways.

A) it stimulates the UV-B resistance 8, a UV B sensing protein. By stimulating this protein the plants can produce more resin and up to 33% more THC

B) kills moulds, spider mites, fungus knat etc

"... for cannabis and other horticulture. 34% UVB / 66% UVA, designed for 2 to 4 hours a day. Guaranteed to increase terpenes, THC and other compounds, and guaranteed to kill powdery mildew and insects when used as directed."

https://www.solacure.com/4pack.html


the stuff I have, but have not used it just yet (fingers crossed I won't need to) is DYNAMEC which contains abamectin,

 
3 gallons is the largest you would need for that space and tent size.

Hey fellas, growing cannabis is not that hard and there's alot of ways to do it. Don't over think it and don't complicate it, especially if you are new to it.

My bigger point is, consider growing organically. The bottled nutes are bad for the environment and you 100% don't need them, unless you are growing hydro.
I use fruit as an example. Yes, you can use fertilizer and nutrients and maybe get bigger and pretty fruits, but do you really want to eat synthetic nutrients? Smoke metals? On the flip side, organic fruits are going to taste natural, fresh and be better for you.
There are plenty of natural sources of nitrogen, phosphorus and micro nutrients. Grow natural. You don't need a bunch of bottled hyped nutrients. You just don't. I used all that shit for years and I would never go back.
Just wanted to put that out there but much success in whatever you decide.
I chose the maxisun for price, light coverage, and the Samsung diodes. It works off a ratcheting rope system, so height adjustment isn’t a problem.

I plan on finishing the plants in at least a 3 gallon bag. I’ve got a few 5 gallons.

I got more research to do regarding the intake fan. Thats on my agenda for this week.
 
3 gallons is the largest you would need for that space and tent size.

Hey fellas, growing cannabis is not that hard and there's alot of ways to do it. Don't over think it and don't complicate it, especially if you are new to it.

My bigger point is, consider growing organically. The bottled nutes are bad for the environment and you 100% don't need them, unless you are growing hydro.
I use fruit as an example. Yes, you can use fertilizer and nutrients and maybe get bigger and pretty fruits, but do you really want to eat synthetic nutrients? Smoke metals? On the flip side, organic fruits are going to taste natural, fresh and be better for you.
There are plenty of natural sources of nitrogen, phosphorus and micro nutrients. Grow natural. You don't need a bunch of bottled hyped nutrients. You just don't. I used all that shit for years and I would never go back.
Just wanted to put that out there but much success in whatever you decide.


You are correct in everything that you stated. A lot of the nutrients are overpriced because the manufacturers know what we are doing with it and the monetary value of the final product, also they play on us being nervous and worrying about not having enough knowledge. Note how they advertise their products in a reassuring way.

Cannabis is basically the same as tomatoes and can be grown using tomato fertilisers that you would buy out of your local garden centre.

Top Tips for Growing Tomatoes

Last year I grew fruit and vegetables in case of a food shortage due to COVID and lockdown. I used the same principles that I have learnt from growing cannabis and applied it to that, so nitrogen (N) during the growth stage and a potassium and phosphorous during flowering (P) & (K). Check and adjust the pH of your soil for each species.

I built a raised flower bed for vegetables measuring 2000mm x 1000mm x 400mm. From decking that I had left over. I put 20mm layer of 10mm gravel for drainage at the bottom. I went to my local farm (at the top of my road) and bought 100 litres of manure from them. I then mixed the manure with 250 litres of Canna Terra Professional Soil and 50 litres of Perlite and 2.5KG of Dragonfli Root Grow Mycorrhizal Fungi Granules. I have only needed to water the soil since then, I have not added any other nutrients or fertiliser.

I had to run outside and take quick photo for you as the photos from last year are on another hard drive. Currently it has garlic and leeks which are a new crop, but the others are spinach which appears to be deciduous (able to grow all year) as are the Lambs Lettuce which have survived through the winter from last years crop. Last year I grew Beetroot, Lettuce, Broccoli, Okra, Pak Choi, Rocket, Spring Onions in there.



Canna Terra Professional Soil
Perlite
Dragonfli Root Grow Mychorrhizal Fungi Granules 2.5kg

If you buy prepared soil mix usually labelled for cuttings, no.1, no.2, no.3 each relevant and pre-fertilised for sufficient feeding for 4-6 weeks for each stage of development as you "pot up" to the next size pot. I put some stones or gravel at the bottom of my pots to improve drainage and prevent root rot.

John Innes prepared soils

I bought a selection of products from this range that I believe covers all the macro and micro nutrient requirements needed (probably not available to you guys in the States but there will be an equivalent). I plan to do a couple of cannabis soil grows to experiment, but I cannot see any reason why the results should not be as good if I had used the "specialist" brands.

Plant Food & Fertiliser

Look for liquid seaweed products

The Benefits of Liquid Seaweed Fertilizer
Liquid Seaweed Fertilizer

I also use non-sulphured Black Strap Molasses not to make it sweeter but for the plant to use the sugar so it does not have to use its own energy converting the sugars to carbohydrates meaning it has more energy to create flowers.

Nortembio Agro Cane Molasses 7 Kg. 100% Natural. Promotes The Growth of Crops. Universal Use. Unsulphured.



Remember this is nothing special a @fourthstbully said, so if you research gardening concepts in general they will apply to what you are doing, the specialist part of this is correctly controlling the parameters of your environment, heat, humidity, lighting periods etc.

Good luck and enjoy what you AND the end product after all your hard wok.​
 
Hey fellas, growing cannabis is not that hard and there's alot of ways to do it. Don't over think it and don't complicate it, especially if you are new to it.

I do grow hydro - NFT because that is what i learnt to do first time around, I do keep my mums in soil pots but that is more about the ease then not being static and being able to move them around.

After one of my first successful grows I went back to the grow shop and the guys asked me how I had done, proudly I said 33 ounces from 3 x 600w HIDs. To which they responded "give him the dunce cap".
He went on to explain to that an average grower should be able to achieve 15 ounces per 1 600w HID and and expert grower can achieve up to 27 ounces per 1 600w HID.

Because most of us work with limited space and resources we want to get the maximum (quality) product from our endeavours. I have realised from experience that I can get the same 45 ounces from 36 cuttings as I can from 9 cuttings vegged for a few weeks longer using cuttings from the same mother and using the exact same setup in the same location.

I know that here is no miracle nutrients that will madly increase my yields that will only come form my understanding of the strains that I am working with and practice. But occasionally a product does show up that significantly changes the rules. I believe Buddhas Tree PK 9/18 to be one of these and their Green Solar Power silicon product which reportedly is available tot he plant after 24 hours hours where as the next best product Budlink took 5 weeks before to plant registered any benefit.

In my last growing phase I had a "side project" going which was experimenting with organic nutrients in a hydro system. This involved brewing a lot of compost teas made up with worm casting, seaweed and molasses. Being hydro i enhanced it with Bio Bizz products to ensure that all of the macro and micro nutrients were made available tot he plants. This meant a lot of cleaning and changing of the reservoir whilst still trying to preserve the beneficial bacteria cultures which I had created to populate in the system. Organic products can smell terrible if left to break down in a hydro system, I used a chiller and had it set to 17C so it gave me a couple of extra days but that maintenance had to be done, you could not be lazy.

A lot of people do not realise that organic is more about treating and conditioning the soil enabling it to create the nutrients that the plant requires more so than feeding nutrients to the plant. Some of the growers that I know start to prepare and condition their soil 3 months before using it to grow in. Building up the microorganisms within it. I am toying with the idea of a composter and a vermicomposter for my vegetables in the garden.

GARDEN SOIL 101
 
Gotdamn spider mites fucked me

made a mix, hoes gonna die

GOT THESE OFF AMAZON WORKED FOR ME EVERYTIME
51Fyrf%2BC42L._AC_.jpg
 
That's the beauty of soil. If you treat it right, it gets better and better every grow. I mentioned previously, I know dudes only water their plants. Their soil is so rich, that's all they need. And their shit is top notch.
Another thing to think about with synthetic nutrients, that shit eventually gets dumped into our soil and water. Shit is toxic. We need to sustain the earth.
With all that being said, I used to love hydro. I preferred Canna, but I would never go back. I tried organic hydro but my plants had deficiencies.
A lot of people do not realise that organic is more about treating and conditioning the soil enabling it to create the nutrients that the plant requires more so than feeding nutrients to the plant. Some of the growers that I know start to prepare and condition their soil 3 months before using it to grow in. Building up the microorganisms within it. I am toying with the idea of a composter and a vermicomposter for my vegetables in the garden.

GARDEN SOIL 101
 
While I was waiting on my seeds to arrive, I got 4 “bag seeds” of an unknown strain.

All 4 have germinated.

How long do they need to grow before I can clone them to determine the sex?
 
While I was waiting on my seeds to arrive, I got 4 “bag seeds” of an unknown strain.

All 4 have germinated.

How long do they need to grow before I can clone them to determine the sex?
At least 4 weeks to determine sex. U can only tell sex once u start blooming
 
While I was waiting on my seeds to arrive, I got 4 “bag seeds” of an unknown strain.

All 4 have germinated.

How long do they need to grow before I can clone them to determine the sex?

You should be able to tell in 3-4 weeks before blooming. If you see hairs it is a fem or a hermie. The problem with "bag" seeds is that often they are there because the plant was stressed and it caused it to hermie. Seeds from plants like that tend to be more likely to hermie which can fuck up a whole grow if you aren't watching for it.

What you start with makes a HUGE difference with what you finish with. I've rolled the dice and gotten from gold to shit but with "known" seeds the quality consistency is much much better.

Also you can determine sex before you bloom or clone you just have to let the plant get mature enough to show.
 
When I start some seeds I get the best results by soaking them for 24 hours in tap water (but I always let any water that I am using relating to growing stand to let the chlorine evaporate from it for 24 hours before using). I then get a clear plastic container like a take away food box or Tupperware put some kitchen towel or napkins in it a moisten with water. Cover the seeds with another layer of moist kitchen towel put the lid on and then put on top of my water boiler in the cupboard. Put a towel between the boiler and the Tupperware to stop it getting to hot and check daily, you should see the roots starting to sprout in 3-4 hours, the last ones I did only took 36 hours.

I tried this yesterday. I soaked the seed for 8 hours and put it in a Tupperware container with wet paper towels overnight. I put the Tupperware on a seed starter mat that I’m using to germinate watermelon and scotch bonnet pepper seeds.

I have a taproot already.

Thanks Fam!
:bravo:
 
While I was waiting on my seeds to arrive, I got 4 “bag seeds” of an unknown strain.

All 4 have germinated.

How long do they need to grow before I can clone them to determine the sex?

If you downloaded the PDF of the book I put the link up for read page 146 onwards bro. 1!
 
I tried this yesterday. I soaked the seed for 8 hours and put it in a Tupperware container with wet paper towels overnight. I put the Tupperware on a seed starter mat that I’m using to germinate watermelon and scotch bonnet pepper seeds.

I have a taproot already.

Thanks Fam!
:bravo:

I grew honey dew melons and scotch bonnets last year.

The melons did not grow very big but were delicious but the scotch bonnet peppers grew well but had no heat. There is a technique where you water them less to build up the concentration of the flavour before harvesting. By over watering them you dilute the flavour, I will try again this year and change my watering policy, last year it was universal across the board.
 
@Thrill3Seeker here are some garlic that I started soaking yesterday, I already have some in the raised bed (but one has vanished) that I started on the 10th October, also some avocado seeds in the glasses trying to germinate as well as another in the ice cream container that I removed from on top of the boiler for the photo. The light is a Maxibright with 4 X 4FT T5 fluorescent tubes at 55watts each.


Also in the photo is a store bought Basil which needs to go into a bigger pot and a store bought Poinsettia, a home grown Amaryllis which has already flowered and a Geranium. The 4 dead plants on the brown trays are Orchids which I was trying to revive. I had some of the house plants in my grow room to over winter them as I only had very small Cannabis seedlings and cuttings at the time so I had plenty of space.. I forgot to plug the fan controller back in after having to unplug it to reset the memory, I ended up roasting everything in there as I was away for 2 days. The thermometers topped out at 70C. PISSED! I just have not been able to bring myself round to throwing out the Orchids yet kind of hoping to see a bit of new green growth but I know deep down it ain't happening.

The vase I bought yesterday for my Mums 75th Birthday it is a 1959 signed Waterford lead crystal vase, and already happened to be on the shelf, I did not put it there as a prop.


Using the method that I described to germinate these are some lemon seeds and an avocado that I did last year, unfortunately they got roasted in the grow room back on 23rd Dec 2020.

 
Sorry mate 16:00hrs my lights come on so I like to be out there to make sure things are all working and to make any adjustments to the EC and pH of the reservoir before the first feed at 16:30.

(Red) spider mites are nasty, they are sexually mature at a very early age and produce 100 eggs each time, 25 males and 75 females. Also our optimum conditions are their perfect condition to live.

I would recommend treating your garden 3 times, allowing a week between each treatment. The first treatment will kill the majority of mite but may not get them all or kill the eggs, the second one should get the survivors of the first treatment and any eggs that have survived and hatched, the third is really just preventative maintenance but well worth doing to catch any young ones the have hatched from eggs that survived he second, Spray everything not just the plants everything! I cannot emphasise enough, everything! EVRYTHING even the ceiling and it you are using tent remember to do behind the flaps where the seams for the zips are.

I bought a steamer to get into those flaps, it only needs on pregnant female to survive and you will have to go through it all again.

Another method which will curb insect mould and fungi is UV butt you need to know what you are doing. Adding UV lighting benefits in several ways.

A) it stimulates the UV-B resistance 8, a UV B sensing protein. By stimulating this protein the plants can produce more resin and up to 33% more THC

B) kills moulds, spider mites, fungus knat etc

"... for cannabis and other horticulture. 34% UVB / 66% UVA, designed for 2 to 4 hours a day. Guaranteed to increase terpenes, THC and other compounds, and guaranteed to kill powdery mildew and insects when used as directed."

https://www.solacure.com/4pack.html


the stuff I have, but have not used it just yet (fingers crossed I won't need to) is DYNAMEC which contains abamectin,

Bro those fuckers came into the house then grow room

I dropped bug bombs all over then wiped everythin

I had 3 plants make it outta 9

from those I pulled like 30 clones

3 look like they won’t make it but others are formin roots
 
@SamSneed I have had them twice now. The first time I was compromised after buying cuttings from another grower who it later turned out knew he had them and did nothing about it. I blasted him for it telling him he was a whore running around with Gonorrhoea fucking everybody without a condom. I had to fight to finish the crop I had already going prior to buying the cuttings. It resulted in me having to bleach and steam everything, dismantle 2 tents empty the room, sanitise the room and then clean everything again before putting it back in the room I was using and rebuilding the systems.

The second time was last year and I was probably responsible by bring trays and pots in from the garden and not washing them. I had to repeatedly spray every 1-2 weeks for a couple of months.

They came into your house either by you introducing something to your grow with them on it or you or somebody else with them on their clothes or in their hair. Part of the reason my day starts so late. As I said the lights come on at 16:00 hours so if I have things to do or prepare out there then I am out there at about 14:30-15:00. Prior to that I am slowly waking up, having breakfast checking emails and fucking about on BGOL clowning who ever wonders into my line of sight before taking a shower and putting on a clean tracksuit before going out there. If it is summer and I have been out in the garden working on the vegetables or fruit then I try to shower and change before going to the grow room. it might seem extra but it outweighs the problems.

See if you can get a product called Dynamec, it needs to be dilutes,


falling that neem oil.

***EDIT***

If you get them in the last 3-4 weeks of flowering I would not worry to much unless you use natural predators like Ladybirds/Bugs because you do not want to use a foliar spray and risk moulds and fungi on your buds,

this is another predator Phytoseiulus


and neoseiulus californicus

 
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IMG-20210226-224816.jpg

Shit looks like portrait mode.this phone take some decent pics.especisally up close.

I hope the stretch phase is over cause she went from 12 to 18 inches in maybe 2-3 days.im running out of vertical space.lil calyxes poppin up.

Not sure if these are pistils or not.

IMG-20210227-122232.jpg
 
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@Mr.Mojo I would like to see that photo taken from a little further back.

Reason:

Is that a desktop lamp that you are using? If it is you are doing very well, but you are still vegging, right? 18 hour light 6 hours dark? Probably about the right time to get that in a bogger pot to increase the size of the root zone, which has a direct relationship with the size of the flower/fruit zone. More roots, more fruits.

To get that to flower to its full potential you will need to get something more powerful above it. If you only have the one plant a 250 HID High Pressure Sodium would be sufficient. LEDs are the way to go but I am still investigating what to purchase so i am still currently using my HIDs.

Spider farmer look interesting and I hear good things, for one plant the SF1000 would be adequate


and another that catches my eye is a British company Invisible Sun LED


with LEDs the things to look for are Samsung 301 LEDs/Diodes which have just been updated from the 301Bs to the 301Hs and Meanwell drivers.
 
I hope the stretch phase is over cause she went from 12 to 18 inches in maybe 2-3 days.im running out of vertical space.lil calyxes poppin up.

If you are using a light with orange or red in the spectrum they will stretch. They will also stretch if they are over crowded and competing for the light. Cannabis can grow 12 inches in a day.

To combat stretching I continue to use my metal halide bulbs for the first 2 weeks of the flowering stage (12/12)

I have the same problem at the moment, mine must be hitting 5 feet, because I am waiting for the electrician come and rum a 15kw circuit for me and I don't want to overload the ring main. When he does come next week I will relocate my 8 largest/tallest plants and put the straight onto 12/12. 3 days in I will trim off everything from the bottom to 18 inches up, 3 days after that I will pinch the main stem and gently put a 90 degree right angle bend in the stem so the plant is now horizontal to the floor, 3 days after that I will get razor back out and trim of all the branches and foliage facing vertically to the floor the branches horizontal will then grow up towards the light. This will give me a manageable canopy at the same hight with plenty of headroom for the lights.

This will then give me more room to spread out what I have in the grow room (veg stage), I will need to get the razor out and do some pruning and training though. Because they have been competing for the light I have noticed that instead of getting a leaf grow out of the stem at a 90 degree right angle and a branch coming out of the same place at 45 degrees I just have leaves. I will probably cut out the main stem leaving the first 4-6 nodes from the base which will then naturally start to grow vertically instead of horizontally. I will try and take some pictures to help you all visualise it.

It's all in the book.

1
 
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@Mr.Mojo I would like to see that photo taken from a little further back.

Reason:

Is that a desktop lamp that you are using? If it is you are doing very well, but you are still vegging, right? 18 hour light 6 hours dark? Probably about the right time to get that in a bogger pot to increase the size of the root zone, which has a direct relationship with the size of the flower/fruit zone. More roots, more fruits.

To get that to flower to its full potential you will need to get something more powerful above it. If you only have the one plant a 250 HID High Pressure Sodium would be sufficient. LEDs are the way to go but I am still investigating what to purchase so i am still currently using my HIDs.

Spider farmer look interesting and I hear good things, for one plant the SF1000 would be adequate


and another that catches my eye is a British company Invisible Sun LED


with LEDs the things to look for are Samsung 301 LEDs/Diodes which have just been updated from the 301Bs to the 301Hs and Meanwell drivers.


IMG-20210223-173455.jpg


I'm Using three work lights wit clamps, flipped her into 12/12 couple weeks or so.so thats where the stretch is coming from.this an older pic but it's farther back.i took the diffusers off the bulbs a few days ago to allow more par light.i still think I need more tho..the pot is in a cabinet with the shelves removed.drilled some screws into the top interior to hold the clamps.i was looking into a grow tent but them muthafuvkas are too big for the space I got right now.
 

 
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i was looking into a grow tent but them muthafuvkas are too big for the space I got right now.

It looks like you are doing well, the leaves are evenly coloured so no nutrients deficiencies and the the leaves are not curling inwards, upwards or down so it is comfortable with the temps and humidity range. I would suggest a bigger pot, as big as you could fit in your space and some food/nutrients with a big P & K ratio phosphorous and potassium. That is what it needs to get the most out of it during flowering. Do you have an oscillating fan blowing on it, it serves 3 purposes
1) it moves stale air away from the plant and introduces fresh air,
2) it prevents moisture build up which will inhibit mould and fungus (which can be a real problem in the later stages of budding),
3) it helps to stimulate the branches by gently stressing them they become stronger which helps them to support the weight of the buds

As far as the tent goes once you have one you will need a dedicated grow light and an extraction fan, then upgrading to fan controller a small oil radiator and possibly a second fan for intake this will give you more control over humidity and temps and minimum/night temps.

Take a look at this tent:

Secret Jardin (these are what I use, 10 years old but used continuously for 5 now need replacing)

DarkRoom DR60 R3.00 60 x 60 x 170cm

 
GOT THESE OFF AMAZON WORKED FOR ME EVERYTIME
51Fyrf%2BC42L._AC_.jpg
When I was growing, and I'm not now because I got fucking busted for it, I could never keep these bastards in my yard.

After less than a week I could barely find a handful of them bitches in mind Garden

Also, if anyone is using actual dirt still, one of the things that help me grow healthy plants was the addition of banana peels to the soil

I went to the store and bought a case of bananas. About two-thirds of the bananas I put them in the blender for a few seconds. Not enough to liquify, but to allow break down quicker than if you leave the banana peel whole

Along with that, I buried 5 dozen eggs in the soil, whole eggs.

I had one plant that was 8 feet tall, another plant that was 7 1/2 feet tall. Unfortunately, both of those were males, but it did work to strengthen the quality of the soil. Ironically, the basil I grew that year smells like weed he can do it was definitely basil
 
@godofwine thanks for thhe input.

Those ladybirds are like policemen, never around when you need them!

I did a quick google on the soil, egg banana thing as I have heard about putting a whole egg beneath a plant when you plant it. I know bananas contain magnesium because after my Mum found out she had type 2 Diabetes she went on a campaign to encourage us to eat a banana a day.

https://www.google.com/search?q=eggs+soil&hl=en-GB&sxsrf=ALeKk01C5G8LgewnvfPXm4JhyDGftTOFdw:1614511029254&tbm=isch&source=iu&ictx=1&fir=19UttnpRJqunmM%2C59wuGGCX1l9-DM%2C_&vet=1&usg=AI4_-kSLp5J2wKe1p_Csg4C6A46l1qUotQ&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwi_pYmjuozvAhVxolwKHdXqBT4Q9QF6BAgLEAE#imgrc=19UttnpRJqunmM
Eggs contain high levels of calcium. This is an important nutrient for plants, especially vegetables and fruits. ... However, excess nitrogen and low pH will tie up calcium in soil, preventing uptake. Using eggs as a fertilizer imparts calcium but it isn't useful if the plant can't access the nutrient.


This corresponds to what I have read when I was researching composters and vermicomposters (worms) re: bananas

 
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Todays jobs are:

To complete the repair on my 8 ft NFT table as it has split (poor design). I have used JB Weld but it also needs to be braced so the stress does not cause it to crack again

and,

the noisy RVK 150mm L1 extraction fan will be coming down, stripped down (which can be tricky because of a stubborn circlip) replace the bearings and refit, hopefully a silent running fan.

I ordered 20 x 608zz bearings from Amazon yesterday for £8.97 (ABEC 9 industry standard top frictionless quality) and they turned up a couple of hours ago.

https://www.amazon.c...0?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I bought the new bearings in case that was the problem but it seems that when I cleaned it last I put the circlip under the spring washer instead of ontop, resulting in the circlip eating itself, luckily I have 9 left from the previous maintenance work.

So just sharing this FYI.



***EDIT***







The bastard child from hell circlip that ate itself, the new one is to the left





I now have it wired up and fitted back in situ but it is making a terrible racket. I have left it plugged into the mains soclet so it runs at 100%, hopefully it will quieten down in a while and just needs to bed in.

 
@godofwine thanks for thhe input.

Those ladybirds are like policemen, never around when you need them!

I did a quick google on the soil, egg banana thing as I have heard about putting a whole egg beneath a plant when you plant it. I know bananas contain magnesium because after my Mum found out she had type 2 Diabetes she went on a campaign to encourage us to eat a banana a day.

https://www.google.com/search?q=eggs+soil&hl=en-GB&sxsrf=ALeKk01C5G8LgewnvfPXm4JhyDGftTOFdw:1614511029254&tbm=isch&source=iu&ictx=1&fir=19UttnpRJqunmM%2C59wuGGCX1l9-DM%2C_&vet=1&usg=AI4_-kSLp5J2wKe1p_Csg4C6A46l1qUotQ&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwi_pYmjuozvAhVxolwKHdXqBT4Q9QF6BAgLEAE#imgrc=19UttnpRJqunmM
Eggs contain high levels of calcium. This is an important nutrient for plants, especially vegetables and fruits. ... However, excess nitrogen and low pH will tie up calcium in soil, preventing uptake. Using eggs as a fertilizer imparts calcium but it isn't useful if the plant can't access the nutrient.


This corresponds to what I have read when I was researching composters and vermicomposters (worms) re: bananas


Nice. We eat a lot of eggs in my house and all of the shells go in the compost bin. In addition, all of our fresh fruit and vegetable scraps, and peelings go in there too.

I’m looking forward to finally using the compost that we have been making since last year. Building a raised garden bed next week.
 
Nice. We eat a lot of eggs in my house and all of the shells go in the compost bin. In addition, all of our fresh fruit and vegetable scraps, and peelings go in there too.

I’m looking forward to finally using the compost that we have been making since last year. Building a raised garden bed next week.


 
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