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Car purchase question

BrownTurd said:
You not making sense. You say you purchased a car were the original sticker price was 128K for 55k. The car is a 2019 and only a year old or less. Within that short period of time it lost half its value? It had to have high miles

If you say that you wanted to get a luxury car cheaper, you could have waited a few months and got it for 38k
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You can’t read and think at the same time. I just showed you a car of a similar deal with 36k miles on it. Cpo also adds unlimited mileage warranty to it.
I’m done explaining it to you. I’ll just let you remain in your position.
 
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PJN said:
We got this offer from the dealer for this https://www.alexandriatoyota.com/in...ited-awd-mini-van-passenger-5tdzskfc3ms006425
MSRP: $52,593.00
Your Exclusive "Carnow - Chat" Price: $47,799.00*
Processing Fee: $789.00
Sales Tax (MD): $3,121.66
Freight: $1,045.00
DMV Fees (MD): $325.00

We're paying cash but dude doesn't want to budge on the price, freight or proc. fees. This price seems to be the best in the DMV for this trim. Take it or leave it?

Appreciate the advice in advance.
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Paying cash for a new car is the worst decision you can make. If you've got 50K to drop on a car you should easily qualify for a zero interest loan. Don't tie up your savings on a car. I suggest you lease it. keep it until the lease is up, turn it back in then get another car. An since he refuses to budge, take your business to another dealer. You don't have to take crap from any dealer. Since this is his CHATprice tell him to keep chatting.
 
Mo-Better said:
Paying cash for a new car is the worst decision you can make. If you've got 50K to drop on a car you should easily qualify for a zero interest loan. Don't tie up your savings on a car. I suggest you lease it. keep it until the lease is up, turn it back in then get another car. An since he refuses to budge, take your business to another dealer. You don't have to take crap from any dealer. Since this is his CHATprice tell him to keep chatting.
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Why get a loan when you could just pay cash and pay yourself back?
 
jagu said:
You can’t read and think at the save time. I just showed you a car of a similar deal with 36k miles on it. Cpo also adds unlimited mileage warranty to it.
I’m done explaining it to you. I’ll just let you remain in your position.
Click to expand...
I probably would not fuck with a car with 35k miles in a year. They were on pace to do 70k in two years. Mainly I am looking at repairs and how long I got on the warranty and the time when repairs pop up. If it was none luxury, the Miles would not matter as much because it cheap to fix.

i remember I had a jaguar and the transmission went out on the bitch 10 miles outside of the warranty and they would not honor it. Punk as transmission was 10k. Man I let that shit sit in the driveway
 
PJN said:
We got this offer from the dealer for this https://www.alexandriatoyota.com/in...ited-awd-mini-van-passenger-5tdzskfc3ms006425
MSRP: $52,593.00
Your Exclusive "Carnow - Chat" Price: $47,799.00*
Processing Fee: $789.00
Sales Tax (MD): $3,121.66
Freight: $1,045.00
DMV Fees (MD): $325.00

We're paying cash but dude doesn't want to budge on the price, freight or proc. fees. This price seems to be the best in the DMV for this trim. Take it or leave it?

Appreciate the advice in advance.
Click to expand...
Your question is take it or leave it. I say get comparable rates for the same vehicle for different dealerships and negotiate the price that way. Your main leverage is that you're ready to buy a car and will take your business elsewhere.

I think you already got some great tips as it relates to the cash vs financing part. I always like to go in with a plan based on the inventory price if paying cash. Your leverage here is that you're buying asap with cash, no excess paperwork needed.

If you go to another dealership don't tell them shit about paying cash. Stay tight lipped about your financial position. Dealers will talk their strategy if you listen carefully. If financing gets you the best deal, work the angle of the allowable discretionary markups by the finance company to the dealer. In other words, the dealer has the flexibility to markup your rate by x amount of percentage points ending in a higher interest rate. That's how the dealerships and salespeople make money - kickback for every marked up rate. In fact that's how finance companies have been hit with lawsuits - Honda and Toyota- for discriminatory practices. They game us with higher rates. So you should always deduct a minimum of 2% off the rate. In fact if you get any rates from the dealer say i want the lender buy rate. The dealer itself never really offers financing. But always shop around it's your biggest leverage when talking numbers, because it opens up the conversation where you can say ok forget financing, reduce 5k and I'll pay cash right now. Good luck.
 
El Diablo said:
bullshit
Screen-Hunter-1209.png
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So you felt the need to respond days later with information that has already been discussed?

 
Aww Skeet Skeet! said:
There's quite a few threads on this very subject. I'm surprised @jagu hasn't chimed in.

If you want a new car, get one. You want the best deal, email a bunch of dealers in the area and ask for the best price (Tyson's toyota is a good bet). Then shop that price against the other dealers until you get the lowest price. Having dealers bid against each other is the way to go. And If you do it through email, you already have it in writing.
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Not just in the area, but in any reasonable days drive, which could be up or down the cost or into small towns in the northeast or Midwest. Even better, use the car buying service from Costco or your credit union; let them work the deal with their preferred dealers fleet managers; you show up with your financing or cash to pay the bill and drive away.
 
PJN said:
Lol, not yet, tried to convince the wife to get ly's model but she's not budging. Got Koons to beat the first price by 1500 so we'll go there tomorrow and check it out.
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^^^

I would tell the OP to post a pic "with the loaf + arizona iced tea"
But I don't think any straight male would lie about buying a $48K minivan
Looking at the specs...bruh...they put a 4 banger engine + cvt transmission, in that big ass van? :smh:
Cot damn bruh, you gonna get passed by Toyota Prius's :eek2:

Matter of fact:
Hey @HNIC you might have to revoke his BGOL man card membership
If he don't show you a letter from his wife, stating that only she will be driving it
 
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Picasso said:
Damn a couple of months earlier and you could’ve been like OP!

giphy.gif
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It looks like in the grand scheme of things, I didn't do too bad. I will say this, the finance dude seemed annoyed as fuck when I walk out of the dealership with the car. I know I made him go over everything till I completely understood what was what. I didn't buy the extended warranties and some other shit he was peddling. All in all I was pretty happy with how it all turned out (as happy as you can be with the whole car buying process..lol).
 
xxxbishopxxx said:
It looks like in the grand scheme of things, I didn't do too bad. I will say this, the finance dude seemed annoyed as fuck when I walk out of the dealership with the car. I know I made him go over everything till I completely understood what was what. I didn't buy the extended warranties and some other shit he was peddling. All in all I was pretty happy with how it all turned out (as happy as you can be with the whole car buying process..lol).
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Hey man you got what you wanted and you felt good about it, that’s all you can ask for! :clap:
 
CurtDawg said:
^^^

I would tell the OP to post a pic "with the loaf + arizona iced tea"
But I don't think any straight male would lie about buying a $48K minivan
Looking at the specs...bruh...they put a 4 banger engine + cvt transmission, in that big ass van? :smh:
Cot damn bruh, you gonna get passed by Toyota Prius's :eek2:

Matter of fact:
Hey @HNIC you might have to revoke his BGOL man card membership
If he don't show you a letter from his wife, stating that only she will be driving it
Click to expand...

:roflmao:

I'll get that letter certified but I can't say I wouldn't drive it occasionally tho.
 
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tanks1 said:
i was about to post these guys....watch their videos..the dad was a dealer..he will answer all possible questions
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Yeah man, the Dad used to be a head (front office) sales manager for like 10+ years
Plus they recently made a couple vids with this white lady
She used to be a head (back office) finance manager for like 10+ years
Both of them know their shit well, & are always dropping good tips on that youtube channel

:cool: :cool: :cool:
 
g0nbad real bad said:
This is not true I worked hand in hand with car salesmen and finance managers for about 16 years. Brother in-law is Sales manager at Hyundai dealership here in Birmingham.

Car dealerships have agreements with finance companies for a portion of the APR.

For instance: Buyer ask dealer to find financing. Finance company says they are approved at a rate between 5% and 10%. If the dealer gets you to bite on a car payment based on 9% or 10% they get a couple of those points usually upfront provided the buyer makes first 6 months of payments.

Here's another way salesmen make extra money on used car sales and you can save money if you find out which is which.

A lot of dealerships don't "buy" their used inventory outright, they finance it. That means if a car sits on the lot to long it starts to cost the owner interest. That's why you see dealers rotating their used inventory in and out of auction. But say the dealer has a car that has sold at auction and has been on the lot to long. This usually happens if they bring a overly packaged car with features nobody wants to pay for. Some dealers put a "drop money" price on these cars where if the salesmen can move it they get an extra couple hundred bonus on top of their commission.

So if you take your time you can see which cars have been on the lot for a while and put pressure on them to make a deal. Cargurus.com is good about providing info on how long cars been on the market.
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