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SOL's Automotive Corner

Replacing Wiper Blades
Are you as conscientious about your windshield wipers as you are about your car's engine? Car safety is a critical concern for everyone.

Worn wiper blades are dangerous. Because 90% of your driving decisions are based on a clear, unobstructed view of the road, it's a critical safety concern that your car's wipers provide you with the cleanest windshield possible.

Ozone, airborne contaminants, oil, sunlight and dirt all act to weaken and reduce your wiper blades' ability to keep your view unobstructed. And exposure to sunlight and ozone cause the wiper blades to age, even if they're not used much.

Weather also plays a critical role in your windshield wiper blades' deterioration. Freezing temperatures make the rubber in your wiper blades hard and brittle, which increases their tendency to crack or tear. Hot weather warps the rubber and prevents the blade from wiping your windshield cleanly.

Heavy use is hard on the wipers because dust, abrasives, road grime and bug juice wear away the cutting edge the blade needs to wipe cleanly. Even road dirt acts like an abrasive to wear away the flat surface necessary for a good squeegee effect.

Rubber also deteriorates over time. As blades age, they lose their flexibility and are less able to wipe cleanly. They may develop a permanent set or curvature, which prevents full contact with your windshield.

Your blades' ability to clean the glass depends on:

The slope and area of the windshield: Today's windshields are more sloped than ever before for improved aerodynamics. But a sleek "cab-forward" windshield with a lot of glass area directs more wind against the wipers, which can force the blades away from the glass at high speeds unless the wiper system is designed to resist lift.

Bosch Micro Edge and Micro Edge Excel wiper blades have an aerodynamic, low-profile superstructure and a heavy gauge steel frame, which provide improved stability and virtually eliminate blade lift-off at high speeds and in stiff winds.

The amount of spring tension on the wiper arm: This is important to keep the wiper refill in tight contact with the windshield and provide a superior squeegee effect.

Bosch Micro Edge and Micro Edge Excel wiper blades incorporate a balance-beam design with a multipoint suspension system to eliminate smearing and streaking in both directions.

The number of pressure points or claws holding the blade: The more claws a blade has, the broader the area over which the pressure of the wiper arm is spread. More claws also provide increased flexibility so the blade can more easily follow the curvature of a large, sloping windshield for full side-to-side contact.

Bosch Micro Edge and Micro Edge Excel wiper blades feature added contact points to increase blade contact pressure at all driving speeds. This pinned-joint design also provides superior flexibility to maintain proper blade contact with the windshield.

The material used in the blade itself: Most wiper blades are made of natural rubber, but some of the newer performance blades have a composite structure that combines a soft, pliable rubber on the squeegee surface for good wiping characteristics with a firm rubber in the blade body for improved support and durability.

Bosch Micro Edge and Micro Edge Excel wiper blades are manufactured using a unique synthetic compound that provides superior blade flip-over flexibility in hot and cold weather extremes.

The unique blend of halogen-hardened natural rubber compound also reduces windshield "chatter" and lengthens blade life by reducing fatigue attributed to abrasion, temperature extremes, UV, ozone, acid rain and road salt.

Plus, the wiping edge is precision-cut to 0.010mm (10/1000mm) to remove even the smallest micro-droplets of airborne moisture.
Important Things to Remember

Heed the following maintenance tips for optimum wiper blade performance and driving visibility:

Tip #1: Replace your wiper blades every 6 months or 6,000 miles - even if you live in a "dry" place like Arizona.

Tip #2: Consider your options when replacing your windshield wipers:

Option 1


You can replace just the refills (squeegees), which are the rubber wiping components installed into the vertebrae. This is your most economical option.

Option 2


You can replace the blades, which is the complete assembly composed of the metal frame and the refill. Although slightly more expensive, this option is faster to install and provides you with the benefit of improved windshield contact and, hence, wiping efficiency.
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I can change a tire. Thanks for the info Lady S.


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Good thread.

Fukk if i ever used instructions...I just mess with sh*t until it starts working:yes:

King Handiman is what they call me:cool:

No tools either, just a butterknife and a screwdriver:cool:
 
Change your battery.

[flash]http://www.youtube.com/watch/v/MYvAhVZVrOQ[/flash]
pt1
[flash]http://www.youtube.com/watch/v/jIEWfmSSwFA&feature=related[/flash]
pt.2

Things You’ll Need:

* Screwdriver
* New Battery
* Wire Brush
* Combination Wrench
* Socket And Ratchet
* Anti-corrosion Solution
* Battery-cleaning Solution

Step1
With the engine off, pop the hood and find the battery. Detach the negative (black) battery cable from the battery. First loosen the nut with a combination wrench and then twist and pull up on the end of the cable with your hand. You may need to pry up the cable end with a screwdriver if it sticks.

Step2
Detach the positive (red) battery cable from the battery using the same method.

Step3
Using a combination wrench or a socket and ratchet, remove the battery hold-down clamp.

Step4
Take the battery out of the battery tray. Batteries are heavy, so grab from the bottom using both hands.

Step5
Use water and a wire brush to clean any corrosion from the battery tray and the hold-down clamp.

Step6
Clean the battery cable connectors with a wire brush. To remove heavy corrosion from the connectors, use battery-cleaning solution (available at any auto-parts store).

Step7
Place the new battery in the battery hold-down tray and secure the battery with the hold-down clamp. Attach and tighten the positive battery cable. Attach and tighten the negative battery cable. Spray both terminal ends with anti-corrosion solution (optional). Check that all cable connectors are tight. If you can move them at all, your car may not start.
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How to Replace Headlights & Taillights


[FLASH]http://youtube.com/v/ifKZXeSjN-c&feature=related[/FLASH]

One of the easiest repairs you'll ever make on your car.
It's just like plugging a house appliance in to an electrical socket

Replacing a bulb in a composite system typically starts by first locating and removing the wiring harness attached to the rear of the headlamp assembly.

Next, unlock the bulbs retainer by rotating it 1/8 of a turn, then gently pull back and remove it.

Carefully remove the bulb itself by pulling it straight out. Insure the new bulb matches the old one and place the new bulb in the housing.

NEVER touch the glass bulb itself, always handle the bulb from the base.

Reaffix the retainer and insure it is locked in place.

Reattach the wiring harness, turn on the headlights and insure your lights are functioning properly.


If after you perform the replacement procedure the lights still do not illuminate, insure you have fully seated the wiring harnesses. If this fails to rectify the problem, you may have to replace a fuse or there may be an electrical problem, in which case you should have the system inspected by a certified mechanic.
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Iron said:
How to Replace Headlights & Taillights

One of the easiest repairs you'll ever make on your car.
It's just like plugging a house appliance in to an electrical socket
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Awww this is my boy right here :D thanks son :yes::yes: Keep the info supplied yes. *e-hugs*
 
PrincessC said:
I have a cute pink one...

51w-ldPf70L._SS500_.jpg
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Princess you are my girl and all...and you know this...we cool and thangs...I enjoy talking to you...but...um...well...ahh...

















What in the hell is this shit! :lol: Don't ever, EVER pull this shit out ANYWHERE around ANYONE who knows ANYTHING about cars!

:roflmao:
 
Andeyhollawho said:
Princess you are my girl and all...and you know this...we cool and thangs...I enjoy talking to you...but...um...well...ahh...

















What in the hell is this shit! :lol: Don't ever, EVER pull this shit out ANYWHERE around ANYONE who knows ANYTHING about cars!

:roflmao:
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i will bite the bait if you look at what it in the kit it is not taylored to cars. It contains tool that a person would need to do light fix it jobs around their house. The pink color makes it for women i guess. Basically she has a hammer a power screw driver with different bits a tape measure to measure for new blinds of something like that and other tools that every home should have. The comments make me wonder if LS should have addressed this question towards the men because i see some of you dont know shit about tools. BTW some of those things in that kit can be used for your car... ie that drill depends on speed and torque.
 
Iron said:
:hmm:

:hmm:

*sigh*
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:hmm::hmm::hmm:
ladyscorpio said:
Thanks baby boy I see you know my vibe...


:hmm:
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:hmm::hmm::hmm::hmm::hmm::hmm::hmm:

sean69 said:
:hmm:

McCain Fail!!
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:angry::angry::hmm::hmm::hmm::hmm:

Mo-Better said:
Come on it's just a color. If you need a tool believe me the color is not going to be the issue. :D
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DING DING DING... THANK YOU Mo-Better.
What's worse? The color, or a woman that doesn't know how to fix anything :rolleyes:


Andeyhollawho said:
Princess you are my girl and all...and you know this...we cool and thangs...I enjoy talking to you...but...um...well...ahh

What in the hell is this shit! :lol: Don't ever, EVER pull this shit out ANYWHERE around ANYONE who knows ANYTHING about cars!

:roflmao:
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:hmm::hmm::hmm::hmm::hmm::hmm::hmm: :angry::angry:
I love you though Andey.

doggish_098 said:
i will bite the bait if you look at what it in the kit it is not taylored to cars. It contains tool that a person would need to do light fix it jobs around their house. The pink color makes it for women i guess. Basically she has a hammer a power screw driver with different bits a tape measure to measure for new blinds of something like that and other tools that every home should have. The comments make me wonder if LS should have addressed this question towards the men because i see some of you dont know shit about tools. BTW some of those things in that kit can be used for your car... ie that drill depends on speed and torque.
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Thank you doggish...it's not like I'm going into autoshops like, "Hey professional mechanics...look at my pink hammer." :rolleyes:
Those are strictly things I use around the house.
 
doggish_098 said:
i will bite the bait if you look at what it in the kit it is not taylored to cars. It contains tool that a person would need to do light fix it jobs around their house. The pink color makes it for women i guess. Basically she has a hammer a power screw driver with different bits a tape measure to measure for new blinds of something like that and other tools that every home should have. The comments make me wonder if LS should have addressed this question towards the men because i see some of you dont know shit about tools. BTW some of those things in that kit can be used for your car... ie that drill depends on speed and torque.
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Aight dog you caping up too soon on this one. :lol:

I'm not dissing Princess. I'm saying the "pink" color is what would make this undesirable to anyone who works on cars because this entire set will be black as midnight by the time you did anything with it. :yes:

Pink is not a color generally used in tools because tools will get dirty. LS is talking about doing the grimey shit. Not touch up work. Changing tires and batteries, oil changes, etc... This is not work for a pink kit. :smh:

But I do think it's cute Princess. :) I love you too. :D
 
ladyscorpio said:
Andey, Doggish and PC don't seem to get grimy and pink don't mesh. :hmm:

Oh and LMAO @ Automotive man :cool:
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[START RANT]:smh: I don't know it's something about pink tools that irk me. I'll admitt that by me responding to this. I'am reading too much into this argument but i'll just say this and go on 'bout my business.

Not only is it homo to see a dude holding a pink tool it's a lil disrespectful.

Keep in mind i'am the son of a carpenter.

I've also had light training in wood and metal work and I work around machinery everyday.

I have a house full of tools. Manuel and electric. Simple evryday tools and tools that you'll only see on a construction site. I've worked with really old antique tools and machinery. Tools that stand taller than the average man,tools than can cut through blocks of metal, tools that weigh just a bit more than a small car and the only fuction it has is to bend thin sheets of metal. All type of tools.

When you start anywork with any kind of tool your instructor usally tells you that tools are not toys they should be respected and takin' care of and that they are highly dangerous even the very simple ones. Tools allow you to live comfortably. You wouldn't have anything with out em'

That pink color just seems a little over the top anybody with any respect for there craft will not pick up a pink tool.

Matter fact they shouldn't even acknowledge that the even see a pink tool kit.

Any body who buys tools because they liked the color and not because it's a high quality product should not be allowed to touch any thing.

It looks like a damn toy.

The end. :hmm: [/END RANT]





Pc I still love you. :D
 
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:roflmao: only on bgol/sol will a car tips thread disintigrate into a brawl over pink tools :roflmao:
 
Replacing Side-view mirrors.

[FLASH]http://youtube.com/v/m-65FGGR6i8[/FLASH]

Side view mirrors are put on in many different ways...some are screwed on from the outside and others are bolted on from inside the door.And some are both screws outside and screws or bolts inside. Many side view mirrors today also have wiring that will need to be disconnected.If not wires then some have cables attached to the joystick used to adjust the mirror.These are the more complicated to change.The easiest way to tell if is going to be a simple task or not is to look at the inside of the door,in the corner where the mirror is attached. If there is a small access panel " normally a triangle shaped of plastic that is either screwed on or will simply pop off and snap back on. If you can get unside there to see the bolts or screws for the mirror or to see if there are wires or cables attached then your are off to a good start.If there are wires then you will need to remove the door panel. (For small cars, not really) Which is a whole new task.If only the glass in your mirror is broken , most auto parts stores sell replacement mirrors that glue back on top of your broken glass or IF you want to attempt to remove the broken glass first it will work just as well. Most electric mirrors' glass is attached in such a manner you have to replace the entire mirror assembly.
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If you're not gonna buy a mirror from a parts dealer. you can go to a junkyard for a new set of mirrors (bring a tool kit) If you can't find one that matches the color of your car take two mirror's from one junk car and spray paint them black. Make sure they match up with your old mirrors.

When you take of the triangel shaped panel off on the inside of the car. There should be screws or bolts that need to be takin' off that's holding the mirror in place. My car has about four or five. Some cars have just one big one.

Once you start working it's really simple just take the mirror off put the new one on. Screw it into place. If you have power mirrors just reattach the wires like you found them. You should be good to go.
 
Seriously. You people are entirely too nit picky. Some of you will complain just to see your font on the screen.
It is a set of tools. It is not marketed towards men. It has nothing to do with men. They are specifically made for women. And no, they were not cheap. I'm trying to understand how color and quality are related here? :confused:
 
Thanks hun :) good post :yes:

Iron said:
Replacing Side-view mirrors.

[FLASH]http://youtube.com/v/m-65FGGR6i8[/FLASH]



If you're not gonna buy a mirror from a parts dealer. you can go to a junkyard for a new set of mirrors (bring a tool kit) If you can't find one that matches the color of your car take two mirror's from one junk car and spray paint them black. Make sure they match up with your old mirrors.

When you take of the triangel shaped panel off on the inside of the car. There should be screws or bolts that need to be takin' off that's holding the mirror in place. My car has about four or five. Some cars have just one big one.

Once you start working it's really simple just take the mirror off put the new one on. Screw it into place. If you have power mirrors just reattach the wires like you found them. You should be good to go.
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PrincessC said:
Seriously. You people are entirely too nit picky. Some of you will complain just to see your font on the screen.
It is a set of tools. It is not marketed towards men. It has nothing to do with men. They are specifically made for women. And no, they were not cheap. I'm trying to understand how color and quality are related here? :confused:
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Princess. Boo. It's ok. Seriously. I'm sure they are nice tools for around the house. They just aren't practical for the type of work that is being talked about in this thread. That's all. I didn't mean to get you upset. :smh:

I love you boo!!! Forgive me? :rolleyes:
 
Basic maintenance tips

Wheels and tires
Rotate your tires!

check your tire pressure Every 5,000 miles or 8,000km, rotate your tires.

Clean brake dust off regularly

Brake dust contains all sorts of nasty stuff. If you leave it too long, the combination of road grime, moisture and heat from your brakes will bake it on to your wheels. Brake dust normally clings to wheels with static electricity so a damp sponge and clean cold water is the best way to get it off.
Check your tire pressures

Check your tire pressures regularly - once a week is ideal. Bad tyre pressures can affect fuel economy, handling and comfort. It's easy to do and there is no excuse not to. arrow Checking your tyre pressure.

Check your tread depth

Bald, slick tires might be good for motor racing but they're no good on the road. Most tires come with tread wear bars built into them now - find one, examine it and if your tread is too low, replace your tires. Four new tires might seem expensive but they're cheaper than a fine or an accident.

Engine
Check your belts

At the front of your engine there will be a series of rubber drive belts that loop around various pulleys, driving everything from the alternator to the a/c compressor. Rubber perishes, more so in extreme conditions like those found in an operating engine bay. Get your timing belt and accessory drive belt checked every 25,000 miles, preferably replacing it every 50,000 miles. Checking your timing belts is a necessity, not a luxury:

Fuel Economy

Check your tire pressures regularly - once a week is ideal. Bad tire pressures can affect fuel economy very noticeably. It's easy to do and there is no excuse not to.

Checking your oil level

This is something everyone can do - it's quick and easy and it'll tell you if your engine needs oil. If the oil is too high or too low, it can cause trouble for your engine. To check the oil, park on level ground and wait until the engine has cooled down after driving, then locate the dipstick. Pull it out and wipe it clean, then push it all the way back in until the top of it is seated properly in the dip tube again. Wait a moment then pull it out again. Check the level of the oil. If it's between the high and low marks, you're fine. (If it's too low, add a little.) The high and low marks can be denoted by two dots, an "H" and "L" or a shaded area on the dipstick. The photos below show a Honda dipstick which has the two dots. Why not just read the level first time around? The first time you pull the dipstick out, it will have oil all over it and it will be difficult to tell where the level is. That's why you need to wipe it on a rag to get a clean dipstick, then dip it back into the oil to get a good reading.
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33wy3cw.jpg


Checking your coolant level

Again, something everyone can do. The coolant is the other thing your engine cannot go without. Every engine is different but if you check your handbook you should find where the coolant reservoir is. It will normally be bolted to one side of the engine bay or the other, and be a white semi-transparent bottle. Wait until your engine is cool and take a look at it - the outside should have 'low' and 'high' markings on it and the level of coolant inside should be between the two.
Do not take the radiator cap off to check coolant levels. If the coolant system is still hot then it is still under pressure and the pressure release will burn you

Fuel / gas
Will higher octane or premium fuel give me better gas mileage and/or more power?

No. Sportier cars have higher compression engines which generate more power and require higher octane fuel to prevent detonation. That's where the myth of "premium = more power" came from. If your handbook says "regular", use regular.

Electrical
Disconnecting and reconnecting your battery

If you're going to do any work on your car involving the electrical system, disconnect the battery first. To do this, loosen the connector for the negative/ground terminal first, and wiggle the terminal cap off. Use a wire-tie or similar to tie the cable back out of the way. If you need to take the battery out, you can now take off the positive connector.
Why negative then positive? If you disconnect the positive side of the battery first, the negative side is still connected to the entire car. If you drop a tool and it lands on the positive battery terminal and touches anything else on the car, you'll have an electrical short. By disconnecting the negative first, you're cutting off the return path for the current. Now, if a tool drops on to either of the battery terminals, it doesn't matter if it touches part of the chassis or not - there's no continuous path for the electrical current.

Reconnecting your battery. Connect the positive terminal first, and the negative second - the reverse of removal, and for the same reasons. When you slip the negative connector on, there will be a spark as it gets close and makes contact with the negative battery terminal. Don't be afraid of this - it's nothing to worry about. Make sure the terminal caps are done up nice and tight.

Check your battery terminals

Most modern cars run on a 12 volt negative ground electrical system. If your battery terminals or contacts aren't clean, you're making it more difficult for the current to pass around the electrical system. Remove the terminal caps as described above and clean each contact post with a wire brush to get a nice clean metal contact surface. Do the same to the terminal caps, then reattach them as described above.
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Lights
One indicator or blinker is flashing faster than the other
When you indicate one way and the blinker flashes quicker than when you indicate the other way, it means one of the bulbs has blown. An auto parts store will be able to tell you what sort of bulb you need to replace it with and your manual should show you how to get at the indicator bulbs - they're different on every car.

Don't touch the glass when changing headlight bulbs

Most headlight bulbs now are filled with halogen and have special coatings on the outside of the glass. If you pick the bulb up by the glass with your fingers, you will leave trace amounts of oil and grease on the glass. When the bulb is used, that area of the glass will get hotter than the rest and it will eventually cause the bulb to crack. When changing headlight bulbs, only hold the metal bulb holder at the base, or make sure you're wearing rubber surgical / mechanic's gloves (clean ones) if you're touching the glass.
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The check engine light

.

Every new car now comes with OBD-II - On Board Diagnostics 2. This is a fault-registering system connected to sensors all over the car, engine, fuel and emissions system. When the check engine light comes on, it can mean many things. There are something like 4,000 unique OBD2 codes that can be stored. Handheld OBD2 diagnostic tools can be plugged in to the OBD2 port which is normally under the dash on the driver's side. These tools can read out the fault code and/or reset the system to contain no codes. Codes are split into two categories - historical/inactive, and active. The historical codes are lists of things that have been detected in the past but are no longer an issue, whilst the active codes are things that are a problem right now. Codes are subdivided into B-codes (body), C-codes (chassis) and the biggest list of all - P-codes (powertrain).
P0440 OBD-II code. This is the most common code you'll find and it's the first thing you should check. P0440 is the code for Evaporative Emission Control System Malfunction which covers a multitude of sins. The one thing it covers that you can check is your gas cap (petrol cap). Most new cars have a pressurised fuel system and vapour recovery loop. If you've filled up with petrol and not twisted the gas cap until it clicks, you've not sealed the fuel system. It won't pressurise and the OBD2 system will log a P0440 code. In fact, on a lot of cars, that code is so common they'll actually have some way of telling you to check the gas cap. In the Honda Element, for example, if a P0440 code is logged, the dash scrolls "CHECK GAS CAP" across the odometer display. So if you get a check engine light, check the gas cap first and see if the light goes off. Note : even if the light does go off, the code will likely still be stored in the OBD system and will show up next time it is checked.
It wasn't the gas cap. If tightening the gas cap didn't do it, you'll need to find someone with an OBD2 diagnostics tool or reader. Some garages will charge you just for plugging the device in and reading the code for you. If they do, walk away. They're ripping you off because there are a lot of places that will do it for free - find one.

The service engine light / Maint Reqd light.

This might indicate "Service", "Service Engine" or "Maint Reqd". It's an indicator that you're getting close to a scheduled maintenance interval. On some cars it's as simple as counting miles before it comes on, whilst on others it maps engine temperatures, oil temperatures, air temperatures and other indicators of probable stress to tell you when it might be time for new oil or a service. In most cars this can be overridden or reset by you, the owner. Your handbook will tell you if this is the case. If you take your car for a service, the garage should reset it for you.
Typically this light will come on when you start your car, and then turn off again as part of the self-check. If it stays on for 10 seconds then turns off, it normally means you're within 500 miles of needing a service. If it flashes for 10 seconds, it normally means you've exceeded a recommended service interval.

The electrical fault light.

This warning light is different in every car but normally it looks like a picture of a battery, similar to the picture on the left here. You'll see it come on and go off when you start your engine as part of the car's self-test, but if this light comes on and stays on, it means the electrical charging system is no longer working properly. Think of it like a cellphone battery. If the cellphone is plugged into the charger, you can use it indefinitely, but when you disconnect it from the charger, there's a limited amount of time before your battery runs out. It's exactly the same in your car, only bigger. Every car has an alternator - the charger - and a 12v battery used to supply power to the electrical system. If the alternator becomes faulty or the drive belt to it snaps, then it will not be able to do its job. The longer you drive, the more your car will use up the remaining juice in the battery and eventually the engine will die. This almost always requires a new or refurbished alternator.
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Brake warning light 1
Most cars nowadays have a brake warning light on the dash. Its purpose is to alert you that something is wrong in the braking system somewhere. If it comes on, check your owner's manual to find out its meaning. Unlike the single-purpose ABS warning light, the brake warning light doesn't have a standard meaning; it could be used for multiple purposes. For example, the same light may be used to show that the hand brake (parking brake for the Americans amongst you) is on. If that's the case and you're driving, you ought to have noticed the smell of burning brake dust by now. The light can also indicate that the fluid in the master cylinder is low. Each manufacturer has a different use and standard for this light. Which is nice. Because it would be such a drag if the same indicator meant the same thing in every vehicle.

Brake warning light 2

If you've got an ABS-equipped car, you also have a second light - the ABS light. If it comes on, get it seen to as soon as possible. It means the ABS computer has diagnosed that something is amiss in the system. It could be something as simple as dirt in one of the sensors, or something as costly as an entire ABS unit replacement. Either way, if that light is on, then you, my friend, have got 1970's brakes. It's important to note that this light normally comes on when you start the car and then switches off a few seconds later. If it stays on, blinks, throbs, flashes or in any other way draws your attention to itself, take note. It's not doing it just to please itself.

Coolant warning light

This is normally the coolant level warning light. If this comes on it means that the level of coolant in your radiator is low and needs topping up. DO NOT OPEN THE RADIATOR CAP WHEN THE ENGINE IS HOT! The coolant system is pressurised and it could easily release pressure and spray you with boiling coolant. Do it when the engine is cold. Top up the system with either a pre-mixed coolant bought from a shop, or with distilled water. Don't use tap water - the mineral deposits in it boil out in the cooling system and calcium gets depositted around the inside of the radiator making it less efficient (which will eventually cause it to fail). It's always best to use pre-mixed coolant, or to mix your own rather than using neat water. The coolant mixture behaves as an antifreeze in winter as well as a corrosion-inhibitor to stop your engine rusting from the inside out.

Oil warning light

Typically this light will come on if your oil pressure is too low. Low oil pressure is serious and if you continue to drive with this light on, eventually your engine will die. Low oil pressure can be caused by a failed oil pump, a blocked oil filter or strainer in the sump, or by low oil levels - for example if your engine is burning oil. Either way, you need to get it fixed, and fast. Low oil pressure is A Bad Thing and your engine won't thank you for leaving this problem untreated.
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Good looking out. Women need to know this, especially if they pay someone to do it; women get ripped off by mechanics everyday. Know your shit before you go anywhere. And Pep Boys will will try to get you bad...


Iron: I'm feeling the new avi.
 
A quick bump.

Checking for common leaks.

An occasional stain or drop of fluid under your vehicle may not be cause for concern. However, if you consistently find the ground wet, or ever find a "puddle," check it out immediately.
Here's what to look for in some of the most common leaks.

1. Bright colors including green, pastel blue, and orange usually indicate an overheated engine or an antifreeze leak caused by a bad hose, water pump, or leaking radiator.

2. Red spots indicates that you are losing either transmission or power steering fluid.

3. Dark brown or black spots let you know that the engine is leaking oil. This could be caused by something as simple as a bad seal or gasket.

4. A clear puddle of water is usually not a problem. Quite frequently it is the normal condensation from running your vehicle's airconditioner.

Once you've diagnosed the leak, you have a couple of options. I usually recommend trying out a simple "stop leak" product. These run around $5-10/can and for that price you don't have much to lose. If the "stop leak" doesn't shore up your problem, your options become fairly limited. If you have a radiator fluid leak, you may be able to find the source of the leak and fix it yourself. Oil, transmission fluid, and power steering leaks, usually take a few more tools than the average person has on hand.




melonpecan said:


Iron: I'm feeling the new avi.
Click to expand...




:) Thank u.

It's the little things that matter. ♥
 

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