Restaurant Review: Maimonide of Brooklyn
Accomplished, imaginative and tasty vegan fare on Atlantic Ave. courtesy of restaurateur Cyril Aouizerate
The MOB Burger Deluxe with yucca fries at Maimonide of Brooklyn
In short: The city’s best vegan food, in one of Brooklyn's coolest rooms.
Don’t Miss: Quinoa salad ($8), MOB Burger Deluxe ($15), anti-oxidant MOB ($10).
Pass on: Brave Heart MOB ($10).
Suggestion: Avoid Saturday nights, when a DJ cranks the noise level to 11.
Maimonide of Brooklyn isn’t the only vegan restaurant with its own manifesto. But it may be the first with its own comic book.
“The Awesome Genesis: Vol. 1” stars a bearded imp in giant retro eyewear-a stand-in, it turns out, for hirsute owner Cyril Aouizerate, the Paris hotelier/restaurateur who brought his savoir-faire to this blah Boerum Hill block near the Atlantic Ave. subway stop.
Chef Neal Harden hard at work in the kitchen at Maimonide of Brooklyn
We also learn that MOB’s namesake is Moses Maimonides, the towering 12th-century Jewish intellectual figure who wrote a treatise on healthful eating. “Nearly 1,000 years ago, he knew that certain combinations of fruits and vegetables had benefits for human health,” the comic says.
Think of it, maybe, as Jewish Ayurveda.
Apparently, Maimonides also knew from flavor, and so does Maimonide of Brooklyn. From a pristine white kitchen behind the double arches in the restaurant’s rear, Aouizerate and chef Neal Harden crank out New York City’s best vegan cuisine.
Carnivores, be warned: MOB’s kale chips are your gateway vegetable. Crunchy, paper-thin and slightly salty, they’re delivered gratis to your table — along with a cobalt-blue bottle of chilled water — by serene, smiling servers.
You might follow with equally addictive oyster mushroom/chickpea nuggets ($5), baked but still moist, and served with a puddle of whole-grain honey mustard that actually tastes of honey and mustard. Or you could dive into a heaping quinoa salad ($8) tossed in lime and mint, the delicate grain both fluffy and tender. Accompanied by avocado, pumpkin seeds, toasted cumin and pastel-orange “candy beets” living up to their name, this makes a bracing warm-weather starter.
Likewise the corn soup ($5), a frothy, marigold-colored concoction of frozen corn, soy milk and miso that tastes of summer itself. Served with a side of popcorn, the soup comes cold or warm; our server sagely counseled the latter. As the MOB story notes, it’s offered “in memory of the native Americans who used to grow corn on Boerum Hill.” Who knew?
The most complex appetizer, a saucisson ($7) of sun-dried tomato, porcini mushroom and sunflower seeds, won’t fool meat-lovers. But that's not the point. With a light aioli and pickled radishes on whole-wheat sourdough, it's a concentrated flavor bomb that stands on its own.
You could make a meal of starters, but it would be a shame to skip mains like the MOB Burger Deluxe ($15), a fist-thick, mushroom-based patty that banishes sad memories of sodden veggie burgers. Chewy and smoky, this one arrives on a house-made sweet-potato roll with intense Brooklyn Brine pickles, charred onions and smoked eggplant. Opt for the olive-oil-roasted yucca fries over salad, or — better yet — gobble them as an addictive side ($5).
The signature dish here is the MOB ($10), a kind of flatbread topped with carefully calibrated combinations of veggies or fruit on lush homemade crust. It’s worth ordering just for the custom-made metal serving platters with arch-shaped indentations “inspired by the Brooklyn Bridge” and engraved with names of local ’hoods. The Belly Charmer MOB translates as a tagine of eggplant, zucchini, carrot, mint and the Moroccan seasoning ras el hanout; a hint of sweetness makes the sultry mix sing. The Iron Man sounds a wake-up call of shiitake mushroom, sautéed kale, horseradish aioli and parsley, as refreshing as it sounds. The menu’s only misfire is the Brave Heart, a brownish mess of sundried tomato, caper-parsley pesto, portabello mushroom and lemon that never coheres.
Desserts like nut-based chocolate or lemon cheesecake ($8) won’t put Junior’s out of business, but they’re creamy and rich, and their oat crust makes a fine foundation. There's also a decadent sweet MOB ($10) smeared with banana confit, chocolate fig marmalade and mint on graham-cracker bread; it supposedly offers anti-oxidant properties. Suspend disbelief and enjoy. Strong coffee ($4), from ubiquitous Philly-based roaster La Colombe, comes in a French press.
For the especially adventuresome, Maimonide of Brooklyn also offers cocktails like Beet Wine ($11) — beet juice, sweet vermouth, fernet branca syrup and fresh lemon juice — and lemongrass-infused sangria ($10), both delicious. A short but intriguing beer and wine list features mostly California vintages and local brews like Southhampton Double White ($5).
This magical mystery culinary tour all takes place in one of the city's most idiosyncratic rooms; Aouizerate’s collaborations with uber-designer Philippe Starck seem to have rubbed off. MOB’s soaring dining room is dominated by a quartet of 12-foot-long communal tables, each illuminated by a row of charmingly mismatched overhead fixtures. A groove at each table’s center holds 20 votive candles. When they’re lit, the effect’s mesmerizing.
One major gripe: When the DJ comes out to play Saturday nights, the sound’s deafening. If you’re unfortunate enough to get seated next to a speaker, conversation becomes but a memory and MOB’s otherwise-sensuous vibe gets shredded. Come on a weeknight, when the mood’s tranquil, the music soothing and the crowd local.
You’ll realize Maimonides was onto something major. And so is Maimonide of Brooklyn.
mkaminer@nydailynews.com
Read more: http://www.nydailynews.com/life-sty...nide-brooklyn-article-1.1116271#ixzz20zQxq6s6
Print menu (pdf)
Appetizers
Creamy Corn Soup with popcorn 5.00
Dry Cured Fennel And Sage Saucisson sundried tomato, porcini mushroom and sunflower seed on whole grain sourdough toast with aioli, and pickled radishes 7.00
Oven Baked Oyster Mushroom And Chickpea "Nuggets" with whole grain honey mustard 5.00
Salad baby lettuces, wild arugula leaves, sunflower shoots, radishes, sherry shallot vinaigrette 6.00
Quinoa Salad dressed in lime, scallion and mint, candy beets, avocado, pumpkin seeds, toasted cumin 8.00
Mobs $10
What’s A Mob? it’s A Secret House Baked Dough Made With Locally Grown And Milled Organic Flour Shaped Like The Arches Of The Brooklyn Bridge And Topped With Fruits, Vegetables And Seasoning That Is Wholesome For Your Body!
Iron Man roasted shiitake mushroom, sautéed kale, horseradish aioli, parsley
Brave Heart sundried tomato, caper and parsley pesto, rosemary grilled portabella mushroom, lemon
Belly Charmer tagine of eggplant, zucchini, and carrot, moroccan spices, pistachio, mint and cilantro
Smiley cherry tomato marinara sauce, tofu marinated with picholine olive and oregano, wild arugula
Glowing Skin kalamata olive and sunflower seed tapenade, grilled zucchini, avocado, tomato, orange
Gluten Free Mobs Available Upon Request For $1.
Entrees
Dinner Only.
Fettuccine Pesto pasta pumpkin seed pesto, peas, artichoke hearts, capers, tomato and basil 16.00
Mob Burger Deluxe crimini mushroom burger, house baked sweet potato roll, secret sauce, brooklyn brine pickles, charred onions, tomatoes, smoked eggplant and lettuce with choice of salad or yucca fries 15.00
Daily Special
Sides
Brooklyn Brine Pickle 1.00
Olive Oil Roasted Yucca Fries 5.00
Vegetable Of The Season 5.00
Desserts
Fresh Vanilla Bean And Coconut Tapioca Pudding with fresh fruit and sugar cookie 7.00
Chocolate Cheesecake with raspberry sauce 8.00
Lemon cheesecake with blueberry compote 8.00
Anti Oxidant Mob banana confit, chocolate fig marmalade, fresh mint on graham cracker bread 10.00
Brunch
Silver Dollar Stack Of Wild Blueberry Pancakes toasted walnuts, fresh banana, new york state real maple syrup 10.00
Buttermilk Biscuit Sandwich Of Smoked Eggplant, Avocado, Aioli, And Tomato served with house salad 12.00
Spicy Yellow Grits From Cayuga Organics (New York Grown) garlic sautéed kale, pecan smoked shiitake and japanese sweet potato breakfast "links" 12.00
Smaller Plates seasonal and tropical fruits 5.00
sweet potato and herb home fries 5.00
Wine & Beer
Captain Lawrence Indian Pale Ale 5.00
Sorachi Ace Large Format brooklyn brewery local 2 large format 20.00
Chateau D’Oupia Rose 10.00 40.00
The People’s Wine sauvignon Blanc, Syrah Or Zin 7.00 35.00
Jigsaw Pinot Noir 8.00 40.00
Bacchus Chardonnay 8.00 40.00
Terregaie Sparkling Wine 10.00 50.00
Cocktails
Beet Wine 11.00
Honey Chamomile Wine 10.00
Lemon Grass Sangria 10.00
Lavender Champagne 11.00
Beverages
Saratoga Still Or Sparkling Water (12oz) 2.00
Freshly Squeezed Orange Juice 4.00
Freshly Squeezed Grapefruit Juice 4.00
Freshly Squeezed Lemonade 4.00
Freshly Brewed Ice Black Tea 4.00
Fresh House Made Ginger Soda 4.00
100% Natural Fizzy Lizzy Fuji Apple cranberry, grapefruit & raspberry lemon 3.00
Almond Milk 3.00
Soy Milk 3.00
Mighty Leaf Tea: Organic Black organic ginger, organic green and organic mint 2.00
La Colombe Regular French-Pressed Coffee with refills 3.00
La Colombe Decaf French-Pressed Coffee with refills 3.00
An unlikely duo, Cyril Aouizerate and Alain Senderens, dive into Brooklyn culture.Photo: Courtesy of M.O.B./Copyright James Ewing, Jacques Demarthon/Getty Images
"He may look like an old French man, but he's a fucking rock star," Cyril Aouizerate tells Grub Street of his 73-year-old partner at the new Maimonide of Brooklyn, French legend Alain Senderens. Senderens is the culinary iconoclast who earned three Michelin stars for 28 years at Lucas Carton before famously rebelling and giving them back in the name of simplicity. "I was done with the tra-la-la, chi-chi, bling, crystal goblets, and glamour," he explains. "I wanted to, of course, keep my purveyors and quality of ingredients, but without any of that nonsense! Nobody understood. Michelin certainly didn't understand." Perhaps equally hard to grasp is why Senderens and his regal Greek wife have turned up on Atlantic Avenue, serving "vegetarian food for carnivores," turning heads yet again ... this time in fedoras, not berets. Lucky for us, he was more than happy to explain.
Cyril called you a "fucking rock star," would you agree?
Well, maybe? My wife is the reason for everything. She keeps me cool and tells me what to do. Other than that, I was always attracted to non-mainstream locations and non-mainstream people. The reason I know Cyril is because I've been the consulting chef at Mama Shelter [Aouizerate's famed, hip-hop-magnet Parisian hotel]. I liked it so much there because it was located in an edgy area of Paris, there was nothing typical about it; we always knew Brooklyn would be next.
But serving falafel in Boerum Hill is a little random, non?
Sure, maybe, but I strongly believe that in ten years nobody will be eating meat. This will be the way we eat, entirely vegetarian or vegan, and science and medicine will thoroughly support that. I have always lived in the future, that is a philosophy of mine, and this way of eating is the future. I'm committed to that belief.
Does that mean you've given up meat?
Oh, no! But I am an old man. It's too late for me! Last night, I went to Katz's.
Well you must have some higher-end reservations while you're in town?
No, no! I can eat like that in Paris. Here, I want pastrami.
Accomplished, imaginative and tasty vegan fare on Atlantic Ave. courtesy of restaurateur Cyril Aouizerate
The MOB Burger Deluxe with yucca fries at Maimonide of Brooklyn
In short: The city’s best vegan food, in one of Brooklyn's coolest rooms.
Don’t Miss: Quinoa salad ($8), MOB Burger Deluxe ($15), anti-oxidant MOB ($10).
Pass on: Brave Heart MOB ($10).
Suggestion: Avoid Saturday nights, when a DJ cranks the noise level to 11.
Maimonide of Brooklyn isn’t the only vegan restaurant with its own manifesto. But it may be the first with its own comic book.
“The Awesome Genesis: Vol. 1” stars a bearded imp in giant retro eyewear-a stand-in, it turns out, for hirsute owner Cyril Aouizerate, the Paris hotelier/restaurateur who brought his savoir-faire to this blah Boerum Hill block near the Atlantic Ave. subway stop.
Chef Neal Harden hard at work in the kitchen at Maimonide of Brooklyn
We also learn that MOB’s namesake is Moses Maimonides, the towering 12th-century Jewish intellectual figure who wrote a treatise on healthful eating. “Nearly 1,000 years ago, he knew that certain combinations of fruits and vegetables had benefits for human health,” the comic says.
Think of it, maybe, as Jewish Ayurveda.
Apparently, Maimonides also knew from flavor, and so does Maimonide of Brooklyn. From a pristine white kitchen behind the double arches in the restaurant’s rear, Aouizerate and chef Neal Harden crank out New York City’s best vegan cuisine.
Carnivores, be warned: MOB’s kale chips are your gateway vegetable. Crunchy, paper-thin and slightly salty, they’re delivered gratis to your table — along with a cobalt-blue bottle of chilled water — by serene, smiling servers.
You might follow with equally addictive oyster mushroom/chickpea nuggets ($5), baked but still moist, and served with a puddle of whole-grain honey mustard that actually tastes of honey and mustard. Or you could dive into a heaping quinoa salad ($8) tossed in lime and mint, the delicate grain both fluffy and tender. Accompanied by avocado, pumpkin seeds, toasted cumin and pastel-orange “candy beets” living up to their name, this makes a bracing warm-weather starter.
Likewise the corn soup ($5), a frothy, marigold-colored concoction of frozen corn, soy milk and miso that tastes of summer itself. Served with a side of popcorn, the soup comes cold or warm; our server sagely counseled the latter. As the MOB story notes, it’s offered “in memory of the native Americans who used to grow corn on Boerum Hill.” Who knew?
The most complex appetizer, a saucisson ($7) of sun-dried tomato, porcini mushroom and sunflower seeds, won’t fool meat-lovers. But that's not the point. With a light aioli and pickled radishes on whole-wheat sourdough, it's a concentrated flavor bomb that stands on its own.
You could make a meal of starters, but it would be a shame to skip mains like the MOB Burger Deluxe ($15), a fist-thick, mushroom-based patty that banishes sad memories of sodden veggie burgers. Chewy and smoky, this one arrives on a house-made sweet-potato roll with intense Brooklyn Brine pickles, charred onions and smoked eggplant. Opt for the olive-oil-roasted yucca fries over salad, or — better yet — gobble them as an addictive side ($5).
The signature dish here is the MOB ($10), a kind of flatbread topped with carefully calibrated combinations of veggies or fruit on lush homemade crust. It’s worth ordering just for the custom-made metal serving platters with arch-shaped indentations “inspired by the Brooklyn Bridge” and engraved with names of local ’hoods. The Belly Charmer MOB translates as a tagine of eggplant, zucchini, carrot, mint and the Moroccan seasoning ras el hanout; a hint of sweetness makes the sultry mix sing. The Iron Man sounds a wake-up call of shiitake mushroom, sautéed kale, horseradish aioli and parsley, as refreshing as it sounds. The menu’s only misfire is the Brave Heart, a brownish mess of sundried tomato, caper-parsley pesto, portabello mushroom and lemon that never coheres.
Desserts like nut-based chocolate or lemon cheesecake ($8) won’t put Junior’s out of business, but they’re creamy and rich, and their oat crust makes a fine foundation. There's also a decadent sweet MOB ($10) smeared with banana confit, chocolate fig marmalade and mint on graham-cracker bread; it supposedly offers anti-oxidant properties. Suspend disbelief and enjoy. Strong coffee ($4), from ubiquitous Philly-based roaster La Colombe, comes in a French press.
For the especially adventuresome, Maimonide of Brooklyn also offers cocktails like Beet Wine ($11) — beet juice, sweet vermouth, fernet branca syrup and fresh lemon juice — and lemongrass-infused sangria ($10), both delicious. A short but intriguing beer and wine list features mostly California vintages and local brews like Southhampton Double White ($5).
This magical mystery culinary tour all takes place in one of the city's most idiosyncratic rooms; Aouizerate’s collaborations with uber-designer Philippe Starck seem to have rubbed off. MOB’s soaring dining room is dominated by a quartet of 12-foot-long communal tables, each illuminated by a row of charmingly mismatched overhead fixtures. A groove at each table’s center holds 20 votive candles. When they’re lit, the effect’s mesmerizing.
One major gripe: When the DJ comes out to play Saturday nights, the sound’s deafening. If you’re unfortunate enough to get seated next to a speaker, conversation becomes but a memory and MOB’s otherwise-sensuous vibe gets shredded. Come on a weeknight, when the mood’s tranquil, the music soothing and the crowd local.
You’ll realize Maimonides was onto something major. And so is Maimonide of Brooklyn.
mkaminer@nydailynews.com
Read more: http://www.nydailynews.com/life-sty...nide-brooklyn-article-1.1116271#ixzz20zQxq6s6
Print menu (pdf)
Appetizers
Creamy Corn Soup with popcorn 5.00
Dry Cured Fennel And Sage Saucisson sundried tomato, porcini mushroom and sunflower seed on whole grain sourdough toast with aioli, and pickled radishes 7.00
Oven Baked Oyster Mushroom And Chickpea "Nuggets" with whole grain honey mustard 5.00
Salad baby lettuces, wild arugula leaves, sunflower shoots, radishes, sherry shallot vinaigrette 6.00
Quinoa Salad dressed in lime, scallion and mint, candy beets, avocado, pumpkin seeds, toasted cumin 8.00
Mobs $10
What’s A Mob? it’s A Secret House Baked Dough Made With Locally Grown And Milled Organic Flour Shaped Like The Arches Of The Brooklyn Bridge And Topped With Fruits, Vegetables And Seasoning That Is Wholesome For Your Body!
Iron Man roasted shiitake mushroom, sautéed kale, horseradish aioli, parsley
Brave Heart sundried tomato, caper and parsley pesto, rosemary grilled portabella mushroom, lemon
Belly Charmer tagine of eggplant, zucchini, and carrot, moroccan spices, pistachio, mint and cilantro
Smiley cherry tomato marinara sauce, tofu marinated with picholine olive and oregano, wild arugula
Glowing Skin kalamata olive and sunflower seed tapenade, grilled zucchini, avocado, tomato, orange
Gluten Free Mobs Available Upon Request For $1.
Entrees
Dinner Only.
Fettuccine Pesto pasta pumpkin seed pesto, peas, artichoke hearts, capers, tomato and basil 16.00
Mob Burger Deluxe crimini mushroom burger, house baked sweet potato roll, secret sauce, brooklyn brine pickles, charred onions, tomatoes, smoked eggplant and lettuce with choice of salad or yucca fries 15.00
Daily Special
Sides
Brooklyn Brine Pickle 1.00
Olive Oil Roasted Yucca Fries 5.00
Vegetable Of The Season 5.00
Desserts
Fresh Vanilla Bean And Coconut Tapioca Pudding with fresh fruit and sugar cookie 7.00
Chocolate Cheesecake with raspberry sauce 8.00
Lemon cheesecake with blueberry compote 8.00
Anti Oxidant Mob banana confit, chocolate fig marmalade, fresh mint on graham cracker bread 10.00
Brunch
Silver Dollar Stack Of Wild Blueberry Pancakes toasted walnuts, fresh banana, new york state real maple syrup 10.00
Buttermilk Biscuit Sandwich Of Smoked Eggplant, Avocado, Aioli, And Tomato served with house salad 12.00
Spicy Yellow Grits From Cayuga Organics (New York Grown) garlic sautéed kale, pecan smoked shiitake and japanese sweet potato breakfast "links" 12.00
Smaller Plates seasonal and tropical fruits 5.00
sweet potato and herb home fries 5.00
Wine & Beer
Captain Lawrence Indian Pale Ale 5.00
Sorachi Ace Large Format brooklyn brewery local 2 large format 20.00
Chateau D’Oupia Rose 10.00 40.00
The People’s Wine sauvignon Blanc, Syrah Or Zin 7.00 35.00
Jigsaw Pinot Noir 8.00 40.00
Bacchus Chardonnay 8.00 40.00
Terregaie Sparkling Wine 10.00 50.00
Cocktails
Beet Wine 11.00
Honey Chamomile Wine 10.00
Lemon Grass Sangria 10.00
Lavender Champagne 11.00
Beverages
Saratoga Still Or Sparkling Water (12oz) 2.00
Freshly Squeezed Orange Juice 4.00
Freshly Squeezed Grapefruit Juice 4.00
Freshly Squeezed Lemonade 4.00
Freshly Brewed Ice Black Tea 4.00
Fresh House Made Ginger Soda 4.00
100% Natural Fizzy Lizzy Fuji Apple cranberry, grapefruit & raspberry lemon 3.00
Almond Milk 3.00
Soy Milk 3.00
Mighty Leaf Tea: Organic Black organic ginger, organic green and organic mint 2.00
La Colombe Regular French-Pressed Coffee with refills 3.00
La Colombe Decaf French-Pressed Coffee with refills 3.00
An unlikely duo, Cyril Aouizerate and Alain Senderens, dive into Brooklyn culture.Photo: Courtesy of M.O.B./Copyright James Ewing, Jacques Demarthon/Getty Images
"He may look like an old French man, but he's a fucking rock star," Cyril Aouizerate tells Grub Street of his 73-year-old partner at the new Maimonide of Brooklyn, French legend Alain Senderens. Senderens is the culinary iconoclast who earned three Michelin stars for 28 years at Lucas Carton before famously rebelling and giving them back in the name of simplicity. "I was done with the tra-la-la, chi-chi, bling, crystal goblets, and glamour," he explains. "I wanted to, of course, keep my purveyors and quality of ingredients, but without any of that nonsense! Nobody understood. Michelin certainly didn't understand." Perhaps equally hard to grasp is why Senderens and his regal Greek wife have turned up on Atlantic Avenue, serving "vegetarian food for carnivores," turning heads yet again ... this time in fedoras, not berets. Lucky for us, he was more than happy to explain.
Cyril called you a "fucking rock star," would you agree?
Well, maybe? My wife is the reason for everything. She keeps me cool and tells me what to do. Other than that, I was always attracted to non-mainstream locations and non-mainstream people. The reason I know Cyril is because I've been the consulting chef at Mama Shelter [Aouizerate's famed, hip-hop-magnet Parisian hotel]. I liked it so much there because it was located in an edgy area of Paris, there was nothing typical about it; we always knew Brooklyn would be next.
But serving falafel in Boerum Hill is a little random, non?
Sure, maybe, but I strongly believe that in ten years nobody will be eating meat. This will be the way we eat, entirely vegetarian or vegan, and science and medicine will thoroughly support that. I have always lived in the future, that is a philosophy of mine, and this way of eating is the future. I'm committed to that belief.
Does that mean you've given up meat?
Oh, no! But I am an old man. It's too late for me! Last night, I went to Katz's.
Well you must have some higher-end reservations while you're in town?
No, no! I can eat like that in Paris. Here, I want pastrami.
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