Totaled the whip / need a new ride

dasailr03

A Goddamn Sailor!
BGOL Investor
Yo Fam

brotha totaled his ride (hit a deer) and the insurance company gonna pay me $$$. I'm good with the payout amount. My question is, should I buy another car and use the $$$ as a down payment to get a lower monthly note or put the money on the note to pay off the car sooner? or option #3 what do you think would be a better move. I need a solid reliable ride, because I travel a lot.
 
My first question is, what type of ride are you looking for? SUV, sedan, coupe? Brands? Foreign or domestic?
 
I'm a Toyota/Honda/BMW guy but I'm curious why. I thought their quality was getting better?
It depends. But there's a recent report, and mechanics is finding out. That the damn engines is going to shit after 60-80k in miles :smh: :angry:

I'll post more info when I get off from work.

Edit: I did a quick search


 
Yo Fam

brotha totaled his ride (hit a deer) and the insurance company gonna pay me $$$. I'm good with the payout amount. My question is, should I buy another car and use the $$$ as a down payment to get a lower monthly note or put the money on the note to pay off the car sooner? or option #3 what do you think would be a better move. I need a solid reliable ride, because I travel a lot.
This is BGOL.....ey'body roun here pays cash out the gate for their cars....no note....
 
Looking for a new ride myself, my bucket is telling me to let it go. I usually don't do the big down payment because I pay the note early anyway.
Checking out maybe a slightly used TLX or Q50
 
I am aware of it...but lets pretend I don't for the people who DON'T know it!


Don't tell them mofos you have a down payment until after they give you the walk out the door price.
Then still watch for them adding shit to eat up your down payment. Extended warranty, gap insurance, etc. They will add a bunch of shit that will eat up your down payment. If the walk out the door price is 34k and you put 6k down, your loan should be for 28K.

Out the door price should be the cost after taxes & title fees.

Don't let them bastids take your 6k on a 34k car and you end up financing a 33K loan.
 
Don't tell them mofos you have a down payment until after they give you the walk out the door price.
Then still watch for them adding shit to eat up your down payment. Extended warranty, gap insurance, etc. They will add a bunch of shit that will eat up your down payment. If the walk out the door price is 34k and you put 6k down, your loan should be for 28K.

Out the door price should be the cost after taxes & title fees.

Don't let them bastids take your 6k on a 34k car and you end up financing a 33K loan.

Yeah you gotta be eagle eye when you go in there to sign papers. I just bought a whip in June. I told the dude 3 times I DONT WANT THE RIM WARRANTY, this mufuka still tried to add it on there. I ended up with a CPO 2021 RDX ASpec with a 1.9% rate

Another thing i learned, unless you got money to cover the deprecation or negative equity, ALWAYS LEASE luxury vehicles. Don't ever finance one unless you got the bread. I learned it the hard way smh
 
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yeah.... another reason why im coming to family to get me up on game I may not be aware of
I spent 4 months car hunting before finally deciding on another car last month.
The shit is tedious as ever. Lord knows how many test drives and dealerships I went to.
But definitely make sure u ask them about any hidden fees. They won't tell u on purpose but add it in the paperwork. Like warranties and gap coverage u didn't want nor asked for.
 
Yo Fam

brotha totaled his ride (hit a deer) and the insurance company gonna pay me $$$. I'm good with the payout amount. My question is, should I buy another car and use the $$$ as a down payment to get a lower monthly note or put the money on the note to pay off the car sooner? or option #3 what do you think would be a better move. I need a solid reliable ride, because I travel a lot.
I have a rule. If I can't pay the car off in one year, I can't afford it. Don't buy new. Buy a 2-3 year old car.
 
I'm a Toyota/Honda/BMW guy but I'm curious why. I thought their quality was getting better?

If you get a bimmer the warranty is done in 3 years unless you get an extended warranty which will add to the final cost.

In my case around 6k. However, I've had work done under that warranty far in excess of 6k.

Go through the different scenarios with the salesman. "If I put down this much how much will the note be?" etc

The thing is to get a comfortable note and hopefully put some of that settlement in the bank. Get a note you can start overpaying from the start.

my .02
 
Don't tell them mofos you have a down payment until after they give you the walk out the door price.
Then still watch for them adding shit to eat up your down payment. Extended warranty, gap insurance, etc. They will add a bunch of shit that will eat up your down payment. If the walk out the door price is 34k and you put 6k down, your loan should be for 28K.

Out the door price should be the cost after taxes & title fees.

Don't let them bastids take your 6k on a 34k car and you end up financing a 33K loan.
I used to sell used cars in my 20s & had to explain to customers haggling on the price that I only worked the fries. Finance handles the register. However; managers used to call me a "customer advocate" because my customers always figured out ways to get the best deals. They hated my shit because they was rarely any meat on the bones for them to administer the r*ape. My secret was in quantity. I might only make $500/car, but I was selling 10+ cars a month.

However; my advice to those with trade ins is to do as suggested and try your damnedest to get an out the door price; then hit them with the trade in and down payment. They hated when customers did that shit.

Only have people with you that know how to read a room. Take social cues. If you have a Chatty Cathy or a mouth breathing Know it All in your circle; leave them at home. One older lady that I was trying to help wouldn't shut up about her "trade-in" when my manager was working out her out the door deal. The more I tried to quiet her down; the more she was determine to say the words "trade" at a high volume. He heard her talking about blue book values and crumbled up his quote as he said "Kelly Blue Book doesn't buy cars. We do". Then proceeded to write her a new quote $3000+ higher because of the damn "trade". It blew up the deal of course and I told her in the future let the person working for her, work for her and stop trying to chef up her own secret recipes. I ended up sending her to my boy at another dealership for the bird dog, and told her to shut the fuck up around Finance and Sale Managers. My boy said shorty probably said 5 words total in that bitch.

Don't look for the sales rep around the sales manager's desk. Avoid the sale manager buddies. The only reason the sales manager likes them is because, they're taking customers for every damn cent. Instead; look for the sales rep that needs the sale. He's the one that will work his ass off to get you the best deal because he needs it. Also, the end of the month is the best time to shop. Ninjas is trying to make their numbers and checks; so they will be more willing to make a "bad deal" if it means they can reach their bonuses.


Also, if you're doing the auto-mall shit. Stay consistent with your story. Don't tell one dealership you have X amount; then go to another dealership and say a lower amount. We had to fill out paperwork on each customer. So who you talked to, your credit score, down payment, trade-in, and all that is already in the system of every dealership in that auto-mall. You being creative with stories after the fact just amps the next dealership to get yall with no Vaseline. Especially dealerships in the same family like an AutoNation. Just know what you said at the last Autonation dealership will be waiting on you at the next Autonation dealership. Don't think that just because the last one was Chevy & now you're at Honda that we don't know all what yall spoke about.

Last piece of advice; know the inventory & don't say shit like I only have $10K to spend, or I'm looking to stay around $300/month payment. Reason being is I've seen plenty of $5K cars turn into $10K cars simply because that's the amount that the customer had to spend. Same with $200/month payments ballooned up to $295 because the customer wanted to be around $300/month. Sad part is the lady that-that happened to thanked the sales rep after for keeping her payment below $300.
:hithead:

Again; be mindful of who you are talking to and the information that youre sharing
 
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I don't know what your money looks like, but you can't go wrong with "Honda."
All you have to do is change the oil on the regular, and maintain the tires. You'll easily get close to 250,000 miles out of it.

When we sold our Honda Element, it had 400,000+ miles on it. That's no lie and no exaggeration. A couple of years ago, I went to a gas station in it. A white guy pulled up to the pump on the other side of me, he was in an Element as well. We looked at each other's cars.

Then he said something like, "Three hundred and thirty." I said, "Four fifty." And we both burst into laughter... Nothing else was said.

Why do you think they took the Elements off the market? They lasted too long... No planned obsolescence.
 
Yo Fam

brotha totaled his ride (hit a deer) and the insurance company gonna pay me $$$. I'm good with the payout amount. My question is, should I buy another car and use the $$$ as a down payment to get a lower monthly note or put the money on the note to pay off the car sooner? or option #3 what do you think would be a better move. I need a solid reliable ride, because I travel a lot.


Glad you are ok. Those deer crashes can be disastrous. Sorry to hear your car was totaled.

I would go with a reliable 1 to 3-yr old car of your choosing. My previous car was a 3 yr old Toyota from my dad’s friend. I drove it for 16+ years and resold it at 250k. Surprisingly the woman who bought it was 24yo and her 1st car. A nearly 20 yr old car. She brought her boyfriend and a friend (car inspector) with her and he took a flashlight under the car & under the hood. Said it was a good buy.
 
And one more thing, well two, for any purchase, it's not what they're asking, it's what you're willing to pay.

And two, get it in your mind that no matter how much you think you haggled them down, they stuck it up you. How often do you see car dealerships close? The vp for ford said straight out they were going to produce less cars because they found that they could raise the price on the ones they do make.
So as I said, it's what the car is worth to you. I may just pay for a car I really want even tho I know I'm gettin it without grease. The way of the world.
 
I used to sell used cars in my 20s & had to explain to customers haggling on the price that I only worked the fries. Finance handles the register. However; managers used to call me a "customer advocate" because my customers always figured out ways to get the best deals. They hated my shit because they was rarely any meat on the bones for them to administer the r*ape. My secret was in quantity. I might only make $500/car, but I was selling 10+ cars a month.

However; my advice to those with trade ins is to do as suggested and try your damnedest to get an out the door price; then hit them with the trade in and down payment. They hated when customers did that shit.

Only have people with you that know how to read a room. Take social cues. If you have a Chatty Cathy or a mouth breathing Know it All in your circle; leave them at home. One older lady that I was trying to help wouldn't shut up about her "trade-in" when my manager was working out her out the door deal. The more I tried to quiet her down; the more she was determine to say the words "trade" at a high volume. He heard her talking about blue book values and crumbled up his quote as he said "Kelly Blue Book doesn't buy cars. We do". Then proceeded to write her a new quote $3000+ higher because of the damn "trade". It blew up the deal of course and I told her in the future let the person working for her, work for her and stop trying to chef up her own secret recipes. I ended up sending her to my boy at another dealership for the bird dog, and told her to shut the fuck up around Finance and Sale Managers. My boy said shorty probably said 5 words total in that bitch.

Don't look for the sales rep around the sales manager's desk. Avoid the sale manager buddies. The only reason the sales manager likes them is because, they're taking customers for every damn cent. Instead; look for the sales rep that needs the sale. He's the one that will work his ass off to get you the best deal because he needs it. Also, the end of the month is the best time to shop. Ninjas is trying to make their numbers and checks; so they will be more willing to make a "bad deal" if it means they can reach their bonuses.


Also, if you're doing the auto-mall shit. Stay consistent with your story. Don't tell one dealership you have X amount; then go to another dealership and say a lower amount. We had to fill out paperwork on each customer. So who you talked to, your credit score, down payment, trade-in, and all that is already in the system of every dealership in that auto-mall. You being creative with stories after the fact just amps the next dealership to get yall with no Vaseline. Especially dealerships in the same family like an AutoNation. Just know what you said at the last Autonation dealership will be waiting on you at the next Autonation dealership. Don't think that just because the last one was Chevy & now you're at Honda that we don't know all what yall spoke about.

Last piece of advice; know the inventory & don't say shit like I only have $10K to spend, or I'm looking to stay around $300/month payment. Reason being is I've seen plenty of $5K cars turn into $10K cars simply because that's the amount that the customer had to spend. Same with $200/month payments ballooned up to $295 because the customer wanted to be around $300/month. Sad part is the lady that-that happened to thanked the sales rep after for keeping her payment below $300.
:hithead:

Again; be mindful of who you are talking to and the information that youre sharing
Great advice.

My last situation was like this. But I stuck to my guns. I did not tell them I had a down payment and I stuck to the out of the door pricing that I researched online. He walked back to his "managers" office 3 times. The third time, we saw him throwing a ball in the air and laughing. Which told me that he wasnt advocating for us. So when he came back with his sob story, I threatened to leave. He finally caved and gave us what we wanted. Now I dont know if i negotiated the best price. But I negotiated what I thought was fair.

With that said, they pissed me off so much that I did not give them my down payment. My plan was to bring it up in the finance dept. But my fear was that they were going to apply it in a way that was beneficial for them. So I saved it and used it on my principle balance on my first payment. To me, it was easier for me to see how the money was applied there than me trying to figure it out on the finance doc.
 
GM is having major issues. Mainly with their Tremec transmission in the Corvettes. Do not touch the new Corvettes. Weight wether an extended warranty is worth it when you could get a little newer car with a remaining warranty.
 
If you get a bimmer the warranty is done in 3 years unless you get an extended warranty which will add to the final cost.

In my case around 6k. However, I've had work done under that warranty far in excess of 6k.

Go through the different scenarios with the salesman. "If I put down this much how much will the note be?" etc

The thing is to get a comfortable note and hopefully put some of that settlement in the bank. Get a note you can start overpaying from the start.

my .02
This is not true. BMW's warranty is 4 years or 50k miles.
 
Yo Fam

brotha totaled his ride (hit a deer) and the insurance company gonna pay me $$$. I'm good with the payout amount. My question is, should I buy another car and use the $$$ as a down payment to get a lower monthly note or put the money on the note to pay off the car sooner? or option #3 what do you think would be a better move. I need a solid reliable ride, because I travel a lot.
This is quite simple. The money was given to you to replace your car. Use the whole amount and put it towards purchasing the replacement car. These days, car notes are 6.5 or more. You can't find another low-risk investment that will give you 6.5%.

What type of cars do you like and what do you use them for?
 
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