A former car salesman reveals 4 tricks dealers use to get you to spend — and how to outsmart them

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A former car salesman reveals 4 tricks dealers use to get you to spend — and how to outsmart them

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Business Insider Business Insider 7/25/2015
© Provided by Business Insider car salesman


If you're looking to save money, big purchases can be a great opportunity to do so.

Unfortunately, when it comes to big-ticket items like a new car, most of us make mistakes and end up overpaying. The experienced and crafty car salesman doesn't help our cause, either.

We spoke to Scott Chesrown, who spent nearly a decade working in auto dealerships before transitioning to VP of Marketing at Vroom, a New York City-based car sales startup that brings the car buying, financing, and selling process online.

Chesrown shared four common tricks that car dealers employ to get you to spend more:

1. They start very low on the appraisal of your trade-in.

The first step in buying a new car is trading in your old one. Car dealers love to price your old car much lower than it is actually worth and assume you will start negotiating from the price they suggest, Chesrown tells us.

Don't get off to a lousy start by trading in your car for an unfair price. Do your research ahead of time, using resources such as Kelley Blue Book to determine exactly how much your car is worth. If you're armed with that information, you become the person controlling the conversation. "In today's world, buyers can hold the upper hand in the transaction," Chesrown says.


2. They get you in the door by offering low prices and then sell you something different (and more expensive).

Car dealers thrive on the classic bait-and-switch tactic. "Most tools online are geared towards getting you in the store because that's when car dealers have the most opportunity to sell the car," Chesrown explains. "The cars are right in front of you, it's usually a high-pressure situation, and these guys know how to sell cars. The stigma of the car dealer is still very much true in the industry."

What they'll do is tell you a great deal is available to lure you into the store, knowing that they can switch you on to a different, pricier car. Or, they'll tell you the "great deal" was already sold, and proceed to selling you something more expensive.

You have two options to overcome this trickery. You can call the dealership right before visiting and ask them to confirm that the vehicle is in stock. If they do, don't stop there — ask them to email or fax a signed statement indicating it's available for sale. Option two is to forego the dealership all together and buy online, or opt for a service such as Vroom, which can help you find a deal online and then deliver the car straight to your doorstep.

3. They try to sell you a bunch of protection services for your car that you don't actually need.

"By the time most consumers get into the financing process, they're exhausted," Chesrown tells us. Dealers will use that to their advantage, and try to extract more money out of you when you're fatigued and desperate to leave with a new car.

"They'll start throwing on extended warranties and different types of protection you probably don't need on your car," explains Chesrown. "People end up buying a lot of things that ultimately don't protect them."

To avoid this pitfall, make sure you know exactly what these additional items cover and then ask yourself if you truly need them. Most of the time, you'll find you don't need so much protection.

A common trick to look out for is tire protection. Often, you'll find in the fine print that you're only covered if a nail was found in your tire — any other damage not involving a nail will not be accounted for. Also, dealers may try to sell you an extended warranty that just covers their electrical system. This doesn't necessarily make sense, Chesrown explains, as modern cars don't have a lot of electrical problems.

This doesn't mean you should opt for the other extreme and forego all service contracts. "It is important to have a service contract," Chesrown tells us. "I'm a very big fan of extended warranties on cars — when they cover the right stuff."


4. They mark up the interest rate on the car.

When it comes to financing the car for you, dealers can make a lot of money by marking the interest rate up, and oftentimes, consumers are completely oblivious that they're getting ripped off.

"The perception of most consumers is that the interest rate came from the bank, which they trust" Chesrown tells us. "The interest rate did come from the bank, the car dealers just put more interest on top of it."

Customers with excellent credit (780 or above) should expect an interest rate between 1.49% and 3.49%, and customers with average credit should expect between 4% and 6%, Chesrown says. The range accounts for factors such as income, debt, and the amount you want to borrow.

While the best dealers will always try and get you a competitive rate, they will also typically start at a slightly higher range to hold back a percentage for profit. Chesrown's rule of thumb is that if a dealer is quoting you an interest rate for the first time, expect it to be 2% higher than what the bank is actually charging them.

"The best way to protect yourself is to learn what your credit is, and then talk to your bank directly about what you would qualify for and the interest," advises Chesrown. "That would then give you the ammo you need before walking into a dealership."

One final tip from the expert: Don't jump the gun and tell the dealer how much you want to pay per month before you're approved. "That allows the car dealer to pack your payment full of all the products if they can beat your monthly payment, which they can usually do by extending out the length of the loan," Chesrown warns.
 
The way they get most people is ask you what you want your car note to be. And good or bad that's usually where it'll be or higher regardless of the rate or the price.

New tricks for less than perfect credit folks:

1: Take your trade-in to Carmax and get a certified offer for it. (they will outright buy your car no strings)
2. Get bottom line price of new car before you mention a trade-in then get them to appraise it if its lower than your Carmax offer they will match or you can sale it to Carmax and come back.
3. Get an offer from Capital One or Bank before you go and let the dealership compete with your rate you already have.

Know what vehicle you want and how much it cost before you go. Cargurus.com will tell you if the price is below/above value.
 
All you need to do is be willin to walk away. Don't sit there going back and forth about prices, especially when they leave ou in the office to go talk to a "manager". Find out what other people paid for their car online, And if they can't give you a similar price go somewhere else. And don't pay for any bullshit $200 car mats or whatever extras they want to charge you
 
The way they get most people is ask you what you want your car note to be. And good or bad that's usually where it'll be or higher regardless of the rate or the price.

New tricks for less than perfect credit folks:

1: Take your trade-in to Carmax and get a certified offer for it. (they will outright buy your car no strings)
2. Get bottom line price of new car before you mention a trade-in then get them to appraise it if its lower than your Carmax offer they will match or you can sale it to Carmax and come back.
3. Get an offer from Capital One or Bank before you go and let the dealership compete with your rate you already have.

Know what vehicle you want and how much it cost before you go. Cargurus.com will tell you if the price is below/above value.

Carmax is a rip off they will straight up low ball you on your trade in
 
I don't get ripped off because I know what I'm willing to spend and nothing more.

Yup. All it is, is knowing what the car retails for, and being willing to say "fuck you, ain't shit wrong with what I drove in here, I can drive somewhere else to get the deal I want." Unless it's a rare car/trim level they'll buckle real quick.
 
I get my car loan directly from the bank. I present the letter with my approved loan amount AFTER the price is agreed on. No need to know what I can afford, if I have a trade in, etc. I detest car salesmen, so I walk out if they insist on that con artist bullshit.
 
Sell your car on your own or put it on craigslist, don't take it to any dealership because they will rob you. You have a way better chance of getting close to what you want for it by doing this compared to taking it to a dealership.
 
1. Get financing from the credit union. If you have exceptional credit, check the offers at the dealership for 0% financing. Weigh the total cost and choose the best financing.
2. Don't bother walking into various dealerships and haggling. Email at least 5 or 6+ dealerships (ask for the sales Mgr or Internet Sales mgr) and ask them for their best price (all-in, drive off the lot price) on a specific make/model/trim including accessories. Then play the dealerships against each other. And the best thing is that you have it in writing.
3. Once you get the price you want and the financing, then haggle on the trade in.
 
Oh and btw, if you can, make sure to buy a car near the end of the month as dealerships may need to hit certain sales goals.

I did this for my fiance. She wanted a 2016 honda accord ex cvt sedan. Was able to get one for 23.3k out the door. It helps if you have a ton of dealerships around (northern VA here).
 
Oh and btw, if you can, make sure to buy a car near the end of the month as dealerships may need to hit certain sales goals.

I did this for my fiance. She wanted a 2016 honda accord ex. Was able to get one for 23.3k out the door. It helps if you have a ton of dealerships around (northern VA here).
That's a myth. Car salesmen work for commission, they aren't passing up any deals if they can
 
So you think dealerships slack off the whole month until the last week to try and make the numbers?

My dude, don't be so obtuse. The idea is to find which dealerships are not having a great month. Therefore, if they need a sale or two to reach a certain milestone, they'll be more willing to wheel and deal. Thus, giving you leverage in negotiating with other dealerships.

I don't want to derail the thread as there's good info dropped here.
 
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Carmax is a rip off they will straight up low ball you on your trade in


Agreed. Just took a car there a few months ago for a quote; they offered me $600 less than what the dealer gave me on a trade (car was 13 years old, over 225k miles and needed about $3k of work done; even for a Honda that would have lasted another 150,000 miles I wasn't willing to invest that much in repairs). On top of that they sale cars at prices higher than what you could negotiate for at a dealer, some of those cars are bought at auction and have suspect histories, AND their warranty plan is absolute trash but it's the FIRST thing they will ran down your throat even though you can only get warranted repair done at their facility (on top of having to pay a deductible each time).

With even marginal negotiation skills you'll get a better deal at the actual car dealer vs Carmax and you can get a manufacturer warranty which is a far better deal in price (you can negotiate it) and when/if you have to use (Carmax's 3rd party servicer will decline damn near every "warranty covered" repair). Avoid CarMax at all costs.
 
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Agreed. Just took a car there a few months ago for a quote; they offered me $600 less than what the dealer gave me on a trade (car was 13 years old, over 225k miles and needed about $3k of work done; even for a Honda that would have lasted another 150,000 miles I wasn't willing to invest that much in repairs). On top of that they sale cars at prices higher than what you could negotiate for at a dealer, some of those cars are bought at auction and have suspect histories, AND their warranty plan is absolute trash but it's the FIRST thing they will ran down your throat even though you can only get warranted repair done at their facility (on top of having to pay a deductible each time).

With even marginal negotiation skills you'll get a better deal at the actual car dealer vs Carmax and you can get a manufacturer warranty which is a far better deal in price (you can negotiate it) and when/if you have to use (Carmax's 3rd party servicer will decline damn near every "warranty covered" repair). Avoid CarMax at all costs.

Yeah they are an absolute joke.. I bought my bimmer from there and luckily I called up my local bimmer dealer to see if I had a extended warranty and it did.. I told the carfax salesmen I don't need their warranty as its contracted out to third party shops
 
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My dude, don't be so obtuse. The idea is to find which dealerships are not having a great month. Therefore, if they need a sale or two to reach a certain milestone, they'll be more willing to wheel and deal. Thus, giving you leverage in negotiating with other dealerships.

I don't want to derail the thread as there's good info dropped here.
Bro that is a female you are arguing with...she doesn't know shit about buying a car from a dealership
 
Yeah they are an absolute joke.. I bought my bimmer from there and luckily I called up my local bimmer dealer to see if I had a extended warranty and it did.. I told the carfax salesmen I don't need their warranty as its contracted out to third party shops

Smart move. Better warranty with folks that know you car inside and out vs the contracted CM mechanics who could do more harm than good to it.
 
Do your own finance with your own bank. Never let them find finance for you. Second, I have a cousin who is a sales mgr. And he explained the best time to buy a new car is the beginning of the following year because the dealers want to avoid paying taxes on their inventory so they sell for lower prices
 
Get financing from a credit union or bank first, then go to the dealership and tell them to beat the rate.

Also pull your auto enhanced fico scores from myfico before you apply so you will know your credits scores before you shop. Any score above 720 will have them bitches licking your ass to try and sell you a car and you can probably get the special 0% financing.
 
I buy or lease cars every three years since I was 18. My wife has been going with me and learned the game. She has become a monster. She has A1 credit and we use an A plan so the price can't get any lower. She will walkout over $2 a month. She don't give a fuck. I feel sorry for the salesman. She gets $40,000 trucks for $300 month on 36 month lease. She's on her 4th truck. No down payment or security deposit. I let her do all the talking when I get my shit.
 
I just bought a new car 2 days ago. I work around car salesman all the time, even had them on speed dial to double check some stories. I was them guys worst nightmare. It took us 3 days to come a good number. I ended up with a 2013 for less than 200 a month.
 
Financing is one of those tricky things. At the end of the day, you can make numbers do whatever the hell you want: increase the term, lower the interest rate, etc. Don't get got. I would suggest that if you do go through with financing from the dealership, know that the devil is in the details. None of this applies if you're paying cash.

Everything seems to costs more at the 'ship. For example, gap insurance (covers the amount between the car's value and what you owe on the loan in the event the car gets total up to a certain percentage) . My credit union: $199. The dealership: $800. Other shit at a dealer like processing fees, various administrative fees get added in Nickel and diming you to death. That's why if you do need a financing option, use a credit union (low fees & better rates than most commercial banks) and have it as backup to the dealership financing in case you're not liking the numbers. Don't go into the dealership financially naked because they will offer you some pudding pops and a bag of qualuudes.

What to look for when comparing the 2 financing options. Again, if the dealer says he can beat your CU financing. Be sure to compare that shit. Key things to look at: total cost over the life of the loan. Sure the dealership's monthly payment maybe lower as well as interest rate, but that may not mean shit if one loan is a 5 yr term vs an 8 yr term. Always look at the total cost of financing the vehicle. Then check to see if the 2 loans are really an apples-to-apples comparison. Are the terms the same? How do the fees stack up? Monthly payment amount is not really my focus (I go in knowing roughly what I can afford and the MPA). Just know that if MPA is your #1 focus you may get got on the total cost of financing the car, with 100s or 1000s more paid in interest (MPA is derived from principal balance, rate & term. The rate & term can be manipulated to create whatever MPA you want within reason.)
 
Your iPhone 6s cost $200 to make yet they sell for $700. Are people going to haggle over this also? You want Apple to sell it for $300

You house was sold for 2x it's cost.

Don't go overboard with the dealers, they have to make money. Maintain a good relationship, you never know when you might need them for something.
 
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Your iPhone 6s cost $200 to make yet they sell for $700. Are people going to haggle over this also?

You house was sold for 2x it's cost.

Don't go overboard with the dealers, they have to make money. Maintain a good relationship, you never know when you might need them for something.

That is because everyone pays the same price for an iPhone. There is no pricing discrimination.

Cars? A car is probably one of the most fluidly dynamic and elastic pricing durable goods any man or woman could ever purchase.
There is a ton of pricing discrimination. Most of it legal. Sometimes it's not legal.
Jack may pay $30,000 for a car and Jill will pay $28,850 for the same car because the dealer liked her.
Jamal may have a bad credit remark and have to pay 7.5% APR while Jacinta gets a 3.99% APR on her car loan.
Then there are all the back-end money flows you don't see unless you're a wise consumer. The dealer spiff. The manufacturer holdbacks. The incentive fee. All these piles of money flow into the pockets of the dealer from the manufacturer and never make it into your hands, so yes, you have a fiduciary if not logical responsibility to hammer the shit out of a dealer on pricing almost to the point that they are paying YOU to take the car off their lot.


Now, there have been a handful of one-price dealers before, namely Saturn was one, Mini attempted it for a bit when they launched, and I think Tesla still operates under the one-price model, but as you can see Saturn is no more, Mini abandoned it, and Tesla sells vehicles in such low volume they don't qualify as a mass manufacturer - more like a craft manufacturer at this juncture.
 
Your iPhone 6s cost $200 to make yet they sell for $700. Are people going to haggle over this also?

You house was sold for 2x it's cost.

Don't go overboard with the dealers, they have to make money. Maintain a good relationship, you never know when you might need them for something.


I hear what you're saying. A good relationship is a definite plus. But let's be clear, dealers that are in business are making money regardless (or they've folded). Here's why:

1. The invoice/factory price for a car is the same price for the each and every dealer. The destination fee may/may not be the same but that fee gets passed to the consumer anyway.

2. There's no way to tell what unadvertised factory-to-dealer incentives the dealership has. I'm not talking about the dealer-to-consumer credits/Cashback you see in the commercials. These are cash incentives from automakers given to dealers for 'x' objective. Some of these could be non-sales objectives like customer satisfaction rating (those surveys they want 10s on perhaps)


With that said, there's no real way of knowing what the dealership paid for a certain car. So while you know the iPhone costs $200 to make, the same can't be said for that of the dealer's car cost. In essence, you're just trying to find out what amount the dealer is willing to sell you the vehicle.
 
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Also remember, car dealers make a TON on financing. They're not finding financing for you to help you get into a car per se, they're doing it to line their pockets with the derivative payments they get for loan origination. When they finance the vehicle the lender on the loan allow the dealer to tack on as many as 2 - 8 points which gets kicked back to them on top of the $200 origination bounty.
So that $500/mo car payment you financed, you're dealer is receiving about $50 of that in pure profit each month.

The financing game was so lucrative in fact that General Motors realized they could make more money on the financing of vehicles and the life of the loan, than the profit from the sale of the actual vehicle itself and thus came the rise of GMAC Financing.


Of course the only way to make more money through financing is to make sure consumers stay in loans and keep purchasing new cars from you, and the best way to do that? Engineer vehicles with obsolesces that keep breaking down or cost so much to maintain, that without gap insurance, they can't sell the car and leave you and can only come back to you for another car and yet another refinancing package.

THat's right gents; GM honchos realized they weren't in the car business to sell you a car - they made cars to sell you a financing package.

It was a brilliant ploy that led to why GM vehicles were such insufferable POS's from the late-70s all the way through the mid-2000's when the gig was finally up and the financial collapse of 08 exposed the truth and what GM had been up to the last 30 years and why they never had the same reliability or longevity of the big three Japanese counterparts. It's not because they could not - it's because they did not want to make cars that lasted 150, 160, 200K miles without too much hassle (unless it was their duty, commercial fleet, and heavy contractor lines).

But I've digressed. Sorry for the derail.
 
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