How To LEGALLY Repair Your Credit!!

MONEYGOD

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I DIDN'T WRITE THIS JUST SHARING MIGHT HELP SOMEBODY PEACE!!!





How To LEGALLY Repair Your Credit!!

I've been sitting on this information for a minute, But what better place than to drop it Exclusively here at BGOL. Yall just remember who hooked your asses up when you set this off. Now, A lot of people have really poor credit, which equals to a real poor credit rating. Making it extremely difficult to damn near impossible to getting anything financed, I.E. A Car, House, hell even trying to obtain a Department Store Charge Card. Well don't despair any longer, I'm gonna break it down for you Step by Step what you can do to basically get your life back. (Sidebar: Lawyers charge hundreds of dollars to do exactly what I' m about to tell you for FREE!)


1. Obtain your Credit Report- Normally this is through Equifax, (However Esperian is also a secondary credit reporting agency that a lot of finance companies and so fourth report to.) Now, normally to obtain a copy of your Credit Report you have to pay a Fee. But why pay if you can get it for Free right? In order to get them to send you a copy of your report for Free? You have to tell them that you were recently denied credit based on items that are listed on your report that's highly injurious, and you'd like a copy to go over because a lot of the items listed you are un-familiar with (Of course this is a lie too, But fuck it, as long as you get the report) They'll ask you a few basic questions to verify who you are, address, etc...And that's it. Your report should be in your mail-box in about 7-10 Business Days. Here's a # for Equifax 1-877-299-5641


2. Once you have your Credit Report in hand, Go through every single item listed starting with the Oldest Items listed to the Newest, and either check it or highlight it. Once you've done this you're ready to do what Lawyers charge you hundreds of dollars to do...Challenge Those Items! What that simply means is that you will call Equifax back and simply inform them that those particular items are not yours and you would like them investigated. Even if it really is? And you say it's not? By Law they have to investigate... By challenging these items, Equifax will investigate each disputed item, Normally by sending off a letter to the Finance Company reporting it on you. If an account is say 4 or 5 Years Old, Guess What? 9 tims out of 10 The Finance Company who's been reporting this on you all this time won't even respond! And guess what else? Equifax has to remove the item(s) from your Credit Report. Simple as that. Now keep in mind, don't talk too much, Just simply let them know that you'd like to challenge these items because they're not yours and you don't know how or why they're even on your report. If you want them to investigate on-line? Here's their Web Address https://www.econsumer.equifax.com/eisc


3. Once you've done that, Just sit back and wait, In about 4-6 Weeks you will receive a letter from Equifax informing you that they've completed their "Investigation" and the results will be one of 2 things, Either it will say that "The account could not be verified and therefore Deleted from your File..." Or it will say "The account has been verified and the amount reporting is correct and accurate..." Of course you wanna read the first, and 8 times out of 10 the first is what usually occurs! Just like that, Easy and simple. Congratulations, you just gotten quite a few monkeys off your back that's plagued you for years! Now...

4. For those few items still left on your report? Normally Equifax will provide a phone number and address to those Creditors reporting that you still owe. Call them up and say ,"Hey, you know this debt is pretty old But I would like to finally take care of it on a setttlement basis (or something to that effect) They're gonna listen to what you have to say because most creditors would rather collect any amount on a bad debt than nothing at all, Especially if the account was charged off (Charge Offs are Bad and definitely reflect negatively on your Credit Rating, Cuzz it basically says that the debt is so old the Creditor has lost all hopes of collecting, Basically making you look like a Dead-Beat, Sooo NOT Good!) Let's say for Example the Debt is $4000.00, (Now before you even call these people up, Make sure whatever the arrangement you're gonna make you can stick by according to your budget.) Tell them you're willing to pay $.50 Cent on each Dollar owed or $2000.00 and further that you will pay this amount in stallments of $100.00 for 20 months. But on one condition..That the Credit or Collection Agency remove any un-favorable information from your Credit Report. Once they agree (and they WILL) Have your Settlement/Agreement in writing and send them a "Good Faith" Payment of $100.00 After that? You're pretty much "In The House!" Congrats on getting your life back and saving Hundreds and sometimes even Thousands on Lawyers who basically does the same thing that I just detailed in this Post for Free.

P.S. This Method is pretty much void with Student Loans. The Govt really frowns on people who default on Student Loans, And they will get that Student Loan Money one way or another, But at least you can effectively get rid of everything else. Good Luck!
 
Best way to repair your credit....PAY YOUR FUCKIN BILLS! Name one nigga that did this shit and it worked just one! Nigga my girl work for Experian, them niggas check to high hella and back to verify a debt, you wish it was that fuckin easy. You got to have documentation than a mofo before anything comes falling off, and 9.9/10 unless its identity theft , you will end up paying them shits cuz now that you done sent Equifax your new address the old collectors know how to find that ass now.
 
This was posted before but i would like to know if anyone has ever done it? It sounds good but does it really work?
 
jackeebleu said:
Best way to repair your credit....PAY YOUR FUCKIN BILLS! Name one nigga that did this shit and it worked just one! Nigga my girl work for Experian, them niggas check to high hella and back to verify a debt, you wish it was that fuckin easy. You got to have documentation than a mofo before anything comes falling off, and 9.9/10 unless its identity theft , you will end up paying them shits cuz now that you done sent Equifax your new address the old collectors know how to find that ass now.



YO MY CREDIT IS GOOD MAN, SO I NEVER NEEDED TO TRY IT, I WAS DOING MY DAILY INTERNET READING AND I CAME ACROSS THIS INFORMATION, I READ THE RESPONSES THE PEOPLE WHO TRIED IT SEEMED PLEASE SO I SHARED IT ,



ATTORNEY'S ADVICE --



NO CHARGE - Read this and make a copy for your files in case you need
to
refer to it someday. Maybe we should all take some of advice!

A corporate attorney sent the following out to the employees in his
company.



1. The next time you order checks have only your initials (instead of
first
name) and last name put on them. If someone takes your checkbook, they
will
not know if you sign your checks with just your initials or your first
name, but your bank will know how you sign your checks.

2. Do not sign the back of your credit cards. Instead, put "PHOTO ID
REQUIRED".

3. When you are writing checks to pay on your credit card accounts, DO
NOT
put the complete account number on the "For" line. Instead, just put
the
last four numbers. The credit card company knows the rest of the
number,
and anyone who might be handling your check as it passes through all
the
check processing channels won't have access to it.

4. Put your work phone # on your checks instead of your home phone. If
you
have a PO Box use that instead of your home address. If you do not have
a PO
Box, use your work address. Never have your SS# printed on your
checks. You
can add it if it is necessary. But if you have it printed, anyone can
get
it.

5. Place the contents of your wallet on a photocopy machine. Do both
sides
of each license, credit card, etc. You will know what you had in your
wallet and all of the account numbers and phone numbers to call and
cancel.
Keep the photocopy in a safe place. I also carry a photocopy of my
passport
when I travel either here or abroad. We've all heard horror stories
about
fraud that's committed on us in stealing a name, address, Social
Security
number,
Credit cards.

But here's some critical information to limit the damage in case your
wallet is stolen.

1. We have been told we should cancel our credit cards immediately.
But the
key is having the toll free numbers and your card numbers handy so you
know
whom to call. Keep those where you can find them.

2. File a police report immediately in the jurisdiction where your
credit
cards, etc., were stolen. This proves to credit providers you were
diligent, and this is a first step toward an investigation (if there
ever
is one).

But here's what is perhaps most important of all:

3. Call the 3 national credit reporting organizations immediately to
place
a fraud alert on your name and Social Security number. I had never
heard of
doing that until advised by a bank that called to tell me an
application
for credit was made over the Internet in my name. The alert means any
company that checks your credit knows your information was stolen, and
they
have to contact you by phone to authorize new credit.

Here are the numbers you always need to contact about your wallet,
etc., if
it has been stolen:

1.) Equifax: 1-800-525-6285
2.) Experian (formerly TRW): 1-888-397-3742
3.) Trans Union: 1-800-680-7289
4.) Social Security Administration (fraud line): 1-800-269-0271

We pass along jokes on the Internet; we pass along just about
everything.
But if you are willing to pass this information along, it could really
help
someone that you care about.
 
How to Deal with Telemarketers

1. If they want to loan you money, tell them you just filed for bankruptcy and you could sure use some money. Ask, "How long can I keep it? Do I have to ever pay it back, or is it like the other money I borrowed before my bankruptcy?"

2. If they start out with, "How are you today?" say, "Why do you want to know?" Or you can say, "I'm so glad you asked, because no one seems
to care these days and I have all these problems, my sciatica is acting up, my eyelashes are sore, my dog just died . . ." When they try to get back to the sales process, just continue on with telling about your problems.

3. If the person says he's Joe Doe from the XYZ Company, ask him to spell his name, then ask him to spell the company name, then ask where it is located. Continue asking personal questions or questions about the company for as long as necessary.

4. This one works better if you are male: Telemarketer: "Hi, my name is Judy and I'm with Canter and Siegel services....
You: "Hang on a second." (few seconds pause) "Okay, (in a really husky voice) what are
you wearing?"

5. Crying out, in well-simulated tones of pleasure and surprise, "Judy!! Is this really you? I can't believe it! Judy, how have you
BEEN?" Hopefully, this will give Judy a few brief moments of terror as she tries to figure out where the heck she could know you from.

6. Say, "No," over and over. Be sure to vary the sound of each no, and keep an even tempo even as they're trying to speak. This is the most fun if you can keep going until they hang up.

7. If MCI calls trying to get you to sign up with their Family and Friends plan, reply, in as sinister a voice as you can muster, "I don't have any friends . . . would you be my friend?"

8. If they clean rugs: "Can you get blood out, you can? Well, how about goat blood or HUMAN blood - chicken blood too?"

9. Let the person go through their spiel, providing minimal but necessary feedback in the form of an occasional "Uh-huh, really, or, "That's fascinating." Finally, when they ask you to buy, ask them to marry you. They get all flustered, but just tell them you couldn't give your credit card number to someone who's a complete stranger.

10. Tell them you work for the same company they work for.
Example: Telemarketer: "This is Bill from Watertronics."
You: "Watertronics!! Hey I work for them too. Where are you calling from?"
Telemarketer: "Uh, Dallas, Texas." You: "Great, they have a group there too? How's business/the weather? Too bad the company has a policy against selling to employees! Oh well, see ya."

11. Tell the Telemarketer you are busy and if they will give you their phone number you will call them back. If they say they are not allowed to give out their number, then ask them for their home number and tell them you will call them at home (this is usually the most effective method of getting rid of Telemarketers). If the person says, "Well, I don't really want to get a call at home," say, "Yeah! Now you know how I feel." (smiling, of course...)
 
MONEYGOD said:
I DIDN'T WRITE THIS JUST SHARING MIGHT HELP SOMEBODY PEACE!!!
Thanks for sharing the information.
This is a good starting point, but there's ALOT more to it than that.

People also need to learn what a FICO SCORE is.

Try this out also:
http://www.creditboards.com
and
The Credit Info Center Forums

Just go there and lurk.

You will be overwhelmed and want to quit before you even start.
But it's ok, just lurk there for a while
before you dispute ANYTHING on your credit report.

After a while, ask some questions on the main board.
The people there are friendly and will tell you what you need to know.

Congress passed laws regarding credit, and creditors DO NOT FOLLOW THEM.
EQUIFAX, TRANSUNION, and EXPERIAN are data collectors (not creditors) and they do not follow the law either.

There are even agencies that collect information on you about your water bill, and apartment rent.

Learn before you do something
that could harm your credit file for the next 7-10 years.

Visit the site.

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The best thing to do is pay your bills on time, if you must enter payment arrangements where you pay pennies on the dollar to have bad debt removed, make sure that the collection agency or whomever sends you written documentation stating that they would remove it from your report, or you'll simply be SOL>
 
MONEYGOD said:
YO MY CREDIT IS GOOD MAN, SO I NEVER NEEDED TO TRY IT, I WAS DOING MY DAILY INTERNET READING AND I CAME ACROSS THIS INFORMATION, I READ THE RESPONSES THE PEOPLE WHO TRIED IT SEEMED PLEASE SO I SHARED IT

I hear you man, its just bad info be proliferatin round the net sometimes and niggas be quick to jump on some bullshit like its a magic bullet. Specially when it come to niggas paying their bills and shit, like niggas didnt even notice that congress passed that lockdown on bankruptcy bill so that now you just cant go file you just stay in debt forever and ever and roll that shit to your kids ad infinitum. Stay up. Damn i miss Bmore.
 
Lucient said:
This was posted before but i would like to know if anyone has ever done it? It sounds good but does it really work?
I dispute my credit accounts online.

Yes, it works. But not in every case.

-1-
 
Mac4L1ph3 said:
I dispute my credit accounts online.

Yes, it works. But not in every case.

-1-

When doesnt it work and when does it work? I have thought about trying it but I wanted to speak with someone who has done it before
 
It does not work when you make false claims that you cannot back up with documentation, it works when you make real claims which you can back up with documentation...

Lucient said:
When doesnt it work and when does it work? I have thought about trying it but I wanted to speak with someone who has done it before
 
ActivationWizard said:
It does not work when you make false claims that you cannot back up with documentation, it works when you make real claims which you can back up with documentation...
Lucient said:
When doesnt it work and when does it work? I have thought about trying it but I wanted to speak with someone who has done it before
Mac4l1ph3 said:
I dispute my credit accounts online.
Mac4l1ph3 said:
Yes, it works. But not in every case.
Mac4l1ph3 said:


Maybe the mods should move this to the business forum. Anyway, this is more than you asked for, but maybe it can help somebody just starting out with this type of thing.

Between the Big 3, (Equifax/Experian/TransUnion), customer data is kept in data processing centers around the country. We're talking millions and millions and millions of people's credit records. When you dispute an item on your credit report, there are no "real people"doing any investigation. There are just not enough people to do it. It's not even realistic for them to try - so computers "verify" information that you dispute. It's all done through software.

Even when you call on the telephone to say "I have a dispute", the lady/man on the other end presses a button on the keyboard to initiate a "dispute". Let's say you have documentation to mail in - believe it or not, but it gets routed to the Virgin Islands and other places offshore with cheap labor to read your letter and documentation. They hire hundreds of people in offshore locations to handle your personal information.

What do they do with it - they read it quickly and determine which code to assign it, then press a button to initiate a dispute. For real, this is all done by software. By law, they have 30 days to verify the information, or it comes off the report. The lady/man on the phone, or reading your letter, has no control over the process or the outcome.

Here's how the system works. The "Bureau's", (Equifax, EX, TU), collect information and store it. Creditor's like Sear's, Chase, BofA, ... Best Buy, Ford, Honda, your local bank..yadda yadda all pay to access that information. THEY are the customers of the Big 3. Not YOU and ME.

The creditors are their customers. They agree to pay a fee to access the collected data, so they can determine whether or not to extend you credit. They also pay again to report on you monthly or quarterly - yes, they have to pay the BIG 3 to report your payment history. Even at less than a dollar per customer record we're talking MILLIONS of dollars each and every year.

Let me say again- We are not the customers of the BIG 3.
So why did I just say that twice already- Well, when you call to talk to these people to make a dispute, you will meet some of the most rude and arrogant people you have ever met in your life. It's because we are not their customers. They're onlly dealing with you because the law says they have to. They're in the business of making money, and they don't make any money off of talking to you on the phone, or disputing something on your credit report. You can argue with them up and down but don't waste the energy on it. They don't have the power to change anything over the phone anyway..

The first few rounds of any dispute are all done electronically, and people "game" the system by claiming "not mine". The law says that if the furnisher of information (i.e. CREDITOR) cannot verify your dispute of information in 30 days, then it shall/will be removed.

So basically, this is "the game" or "the hustle". It's people gambling on a software flaw. The flaw is that the software and computer systems are often overburdened and slow because of millions and millions of customer disputes. Your dispute gets hung in the system, or whatever, but once that 30 days is up, the Big 3 have to drop it from your report if there is no response from the creditor.

That's the truth.

Don't pay anybody to "repair" your credit. You can do it all yourself.

Now here's the downside. Sometimes these companies do "verify" that the information reported IS ACCURATE and IS YOURS. So if you are still within the statute of limitations for your state, they can and usually will take you to court over some unpaid bills. You just have to find out what the statute of limitations are (as applied to creditors) for your state.

Now, the big question.

Is it a lie? Are you doing something illegal? The answer is NO. But the answer is also a grey area. Congress wrote laws that any information kept on you has to be 100% accurate and verifiable. Is it really yours if they can't verify it? The law says no it isn't. Do you know for sure that it's your debt? Maybe you forgot about it and just want it verfied to make sure it's really your debt. Ehhhh... it's a grey area. You're not breaking the law though. Do the Big 3 follow the laws? Hell no they don't.

So when you find something inaccurate on your credit report, the Big 3 always fall-back and say "Well that's what the creditor sent us - so you need to take it up with them." So you take it up with them, and they send you back to the Big 3. It's all a big circle.

You really have to stay on top of the game and check your reports for some bullshit before you walk in to finance that car or that house. If you really don't care then you're probably paying cash, or will take any high interest rate they're willing to give you. Personally, I want to get the lowest rate on anything I finance - fuck that 21% interest on a loan for X number of years.

My suggestion is to visit these websites and read them before you buy a credit score (FICO) or a credit report. Try and get an understanding before you start any of this. It will save you a headache in the future.

Now I could get into the whole conspiracy theory about why it is that you have to pay money to access your own information - information about you that they have spent years collecting, but that's another story.

http://www.equifax.com

http://www.experian.com

http://www.transunion.com

http://www.myfico.com

http://www.privacyguard.com



If none of this makes any sense or I said something that's wrong, let me know.

-1-

 
ActivationWizard said:
It does not work when you make false claims that you cannot back up with documentation, it works when you make real claims which you can back up with documentation...

Not necessarily, I had an account for my brother investigated and removed simply by stating that he had never had that account in his life (no documentation). 3days later I got an email saying that it was removed from his credit report, and within days he was able to apply and obtain a credit card from a dept store he had been turned down by a few weeks back.
 
I work as a credit manager for a large bank. Yeah. Basically challenge everything. Some things will come off, some won't. Believe it or not alot of people have bad credit. You are actually better off filing bankruptcy rather paying the bills. In about a year or two you'll get loans and what not. You might have to pay more in interest rates but you'll have piece of mind. Companies like mine actually look to get people who have bad credit becuz we know if they file bankruptcy before they can't do it again and we can make who hella money.
 
I disagree, I tried it and two items that I needed to come off my report came off that actually were true occurances and had negatively impacted my credit. My beacon went from 670 to 741. So I guess it just depends on who opens the mail. There are people out there that can get it done. I was lucky and did the research myself. You just have to have access to the laws that make it possible and someone that knows how to do it. Reporting a debt goes far beyond just verifying it. There are other steps that the bureaus have to take before they report an item, whether it be true or not. But because people are not aware of this, and simply request the bureaus to "verify" the debt, they are more than happy and more than prepared to do so. Those other steps however, they are not because the public at large is not aware of them so very few people ever call their bluff. But that is how you get things off your report. Never raise the question is what you reported true, but did you report it properly and leagally.Because they cant go back and correct it, they have to take it off. Under the law, if somthing is not "correct" in its procedure then its not valid. The same principle that allows the guilty to "walk" on a technicalilty.
 
free credit reports online bout tyme they did sumthing right

AnnualCreditReport.com (copy&paste)


you get all three reports for free. if you want your fico score they charge you. but when you get your report online print them because you only get to see them once.


it works.
 
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I tried everything in the first post two months ago. basically its all true and worth the time and effort. i had three negatives removed and four others updated. I dont know how mch doing so will improve my credit. I will check it again in two months but the why and how is true.
 
MONEYGOD said:
P.S. This Method is pretty much void with Student Loans. The Govt really frowns on people who default on Student Loans, And they will get that Student Loan Money one way or another, But at least you can effectively get rid of everything else. Good Luck!

That's what's killing me the damn student loan.
 
Here are some sample letters for people who need to dispute with the CRA's. Change whatever to fit your needs.

Dispute A Debt

This is a letter to dispute a debt with a credit bureau. Send as certified mail, return receipt requested.

«Your Name»
«Address1»
«Address2»
«City», «State» «Zip»

«Company»
«Address1»
«Address2»
«City», «State» «Zip»

«Date»

Dear Sir/Madame:

This letter is a formal complaint that you are reporting inaccurate and incomplete credit information.

I am distressed that you have included the below information in my credit profile and have failed to maintain reasonable procedures in your operations to assure maximum possible accuracy in the credit reports you publish.

Credit reporting laws ensure that bureaus report only 100% accurate credit information. Every step must be taken to assure the information reported is completely accurate and correct.

The following information therefore needs to be re-investigated. I respectfully request to be provided proof of this alleged item, specifically the contract, note or other instrument bearing my signature. Failing that, the item must be deleted from the report as soon as possible:

Name of Creditor/Agency, Account #_________

The listed item is completely inaccurate and incomplete, and is a very serious error in reporting. Please delete this misleading information, and supply a corrected credit profile to all creditors who have received a copy within the last 6 months, or the last 2 years for employment purposes.

Additionally, please provide the name, address, and telephone number of each credit grantor or other subscriber.

Under federal law, you have thirty (30) days to complete your re-investigation. Be advised that the description of the procedure used to determine the accuracy and completeness of the information is hereby requested as well, to be provided within 15 days of the completion of your re-investigation.

Sincerely,

«Signature»
«Your Name»
«Your SSN»


If after 30 days (to the tee) you've gotten no response, meaning an updated report, then shoot 'em this letter:
This letter disputing an item on your credit report with a credit bureau is to be sent 30 days after your original letter. Send as certified mail, return receipt requested.

«Your Name»
«Address1»
«Address2»
«City», «State» «Zip»

«Company»
«Address1»
«Address2»
«City», «State» «Zip»

«Date»

RE: Dispute Letter of <insert date>

Dear Sir/Madame:

This letter serves as formal notice of your failure to respond in a timely manner to my dispute letter of <insert date>, deposited by registered mail with the U.S. Postal Service on that date.

Federal law requires you to respond within 30 days, yet you have failed to respond. Failure to comply with these federal regulations by credit reporting agencies are investigated by the Federal Trade Commission (see 15 USC 41, et seq.). I am maintaining a careful record of my communications with you on this matter, for the purpose of filing a complaint with the FTC should you continue in your non-compliance. I further remind you that, as in Wenger v. Trans Union Corp., No. 95-6445 (C.D.Cal. Nov. 14, 1995), you may be liable for your willful non-compliance.

Be aware that I am making a final goodwill attempt to have you clear up this matter. You have 15 days to cure.

For your benefit, and as a gesture of my goodwill, I will restate my dispute. The following information needs to be verified and deleted from the report as soon as possible:

Name of Creditor/Agency, Account #_________

The listed item is completely inaccurate and incomplete, and is a very serious error in reporting. Please delete this misleading information, and supply a corrected credit profile to all creditors who have received a copy within the last 6 months, or the last 2 years for employment purposes.

Additionally, please provide the name, address, and telephone number of each credit grantor or other subscriber.

Under federal law, you had 30 days to complete your re-investigation, yet you have failed to respond. Do not delay further.

Be advised that the description of the procedure used to determine the accuracy and completeness of the information is hereby requested as well, to be provided within 15 days of the completion of your re-investigation.

Sincerely,

«Signature»
«Your Name»
«Your SSN»


Simple inquiry dispute letter:
This is a letter to dispute an inquiry on your credit report with a credit bureau. Send as certified mail, return receipt requested.

«Your Name»
«Address1»
«Address2»
«City», «State» «Zip»

«Company»
«Address1»
«Address2»
«City», «State» «Zip»

«Date»

Dear Sir/Madame:

This letter is a formal complaint that you are reporting inaccurate and incomplete credit information.

I am distressed that you have included the below information in my credit profile and have failed to maintain reasonable procedures in your operations to assure maximum possible accuracy in the credit reports you publish.

Credit reporting laws ensure that bureaus report only 100% accurate credit information. Every step must be taken to assure the information reported is completely accurate and correct.

The following information therefore needs to be re-investigated. I respectfully request to be provided proof that these inquiries were in fact authorized with an instrument bearing my signature, and for legitimate business purposes. Failing that, the unauthorized inquiry must be deleted from the report as soon as possible:

Name of Creditor/Agency, Account #_________

The listed inquiry was without authorization, and for no legitimate business purposes. As such, it is a very serious error in reporting. Please delete this misleading information, and supply a corrected credit profile to all creditors who have received a copy within the last 6 months, or the last 2 years for employment purposes.

Additionally, please provide the name, address, and telephone number of each credit grantor or other subscriber.

Under federal law, you have thirty (30) days to complete your re-investigation. Be advised that the description of the procedure used to determine the accuracy and completeness of the information is hereby requested as well, to be provided within 15 days of the completion of your re-investigation.

Sincerely,

«Signature»
«Your Name»
«Your SSN»
 
ActivationWizard said:
It does not work when you make false claims that you cannot back up with documentation, it works when you make real claims which you can back up with documentation...

That aint true, i recently did this because of something that was false on my credit. I didnt provide a damn thing and next thing you know its clear! :D
 
jackeebleu said:
Best way to repair your credit....PAY YOUR FUCKIN BILLS! Name one nigga that did this shit and it worked just one! Nigga my girl work for Experian, them niggas check to high hella and back to verify a debt, you wish it was that fuckin easy. You got to have documentation than a mofo before anything comes falling off, and 9.9/10 unless its identity theft , you will end up paying them shits cuz now that you done sent Equifax your new address the old collectors know how to find that ass now.


my cosign ink is still wet
 
TBone said:
I disagree, I tried it and two items that I needed to come off my report came off that actually were true occurances and had negatively impacted my credit. My beacon went from 670 to 741. So I guess it just depends on who opens the mail. There are people out there that can get it done. I was lucky and did the research myself. You just have to have access to the laws that make it possible and someone that knows how to do it. Reporting a debt goes far beyond just verifying it. There are other steps that the bureaus have to take before they report an item, whether it be true or not. But because people are not aware of this, and simply request the bureaus to "verify" the debt, they are more than happy and more than prepared to do so. Those other steps however, they are not because the public at large is not aware of them so very few people ever call their bluff. But that is how you get things off your report. Never raise the question is what you reported true, but did you report it properly and leagally.Because they cant go back and correct it, they have to take it off. Under the law, if somthing is not "correct" in its procedure then its not valid. The same principle that allows the guilty to "walk" on a technicalilty.
Let me say two things:
VERIFICATION & VALIDATION

The Credit Bureau's VERFIY and the Original Creditor's VALIDATE.
That's it.

The Credit Bureau's are held to a LOWER standard by Congress than the Original Creditors. When you dispute, no matter what you write on a letter or type in an online dispute, the Credit Bureau will only do software VERIFICATION against their database and the original creditor. When you want VALIDATION, you have to contact the original creditor yourself. This is why you often get the 'FRIVOLOUS' letter from the Bureau's when you've disputed an item more than once. Yes, sometimes they actually send you a letter after you dispute an item saying "previously investigated" and your claim was "FRIVOLOUS". You can dispute again and again until you're blue in the face but what you really need to do is get the ORIGINAL CREDITOR to VALIDATE your debt and send the updated information to the bureau's.

A "FRIVOLOUS" letter from the Credit Bureau's really means "we did a VERIFICATION, as required by law, against our software and the Creditor, and the debt is yours, it will remain". Even when you send a letter FROM THE ORIGINAL CREDITOR HIM/HERSELF the bureau's will often disregard it, as they will only accept proof from their customers (ORIGINAL CREDITOR) and not you.

So what does VERIFICATION really mean- that's another grey area because Congress did not specifically state what the Bureau's have TO DO to VERIFY your debt, only that VERFICATION HAS TO BE DONE, and within 30 days of your disptute. Many people write letters to the bureau's demanding a "REQUEST FOR PROCEDURE" or "how in the fuck did you really verify this?" type of letter. In either case, like I said above, the Bureau's are held to a lower standard than the original creditor.

Don't believe me - just check these websites and learn. Anything and everything I've said in this post is oversimplified for easier understanding. All of you need to hit these websites and get a better understanding of what all this means. I couldn't possibly tell you everything, there's just too much info on the links below so don't take my word for it.

Oh yea, here's a 3rd thing: Never dispute a positive tradeline on your credit report with the Bureau's. Like the poster above said, there is a good chance you will lose it -and you really need to keep it there because good history on a tradeline helps your FICO score. What I mean is, the original creditor has 30 days to respond on a dispute or you lose the tradeline, regardless if it was a positive or negative tradeline on the credit report.

I just thought of a 4th thing to say:
There is a difference between a FICO score and a BEACON score. FICO scores were invented and patented by Fair, Issac, and Co. and BEACON scores were invented and patented by Experian to compete with FICO. At the time of this posting the vast majority of creditors use FICO score modeling to determine your credit-worthiness. Beacon scores are catching on, but FICO scores continue to rule the credit industry. Find out what your FICO score is and how to improve it.

Try this out also:
http://www.equifax.com

http://www.experian.com

http://www.transunion.com

http://www.myfico.com

http://www.privacyguard.com

http://www.creditboards.com
and
The Credit Info Center Forums

Just go there and lurk.

-1-
 
jackeebleu said:
Best way to repair your credit....PAY YOUR FUCKIN BILLS! Name one nigga that did this shit and it worked just one! Nigga my girl work for Experian, them niggas check to high hella and back to verify a debt, you wish it was that fuckin easy. You got to have documentation than a mofo before anything comes falling off, and 9.9/10 unless its identity theft , you will end up paying them shits cuz now that you done sent Equifax your new address the old collectors know how to find that ass now.


tell 'em.
 
MONEYGOD said:
2. Do not sign the back of your credit cards. Instead, put "PHOTO ID
REQUIRED".

I use to do this but some places like the post office required a signature to be on back of your card or you can't complete the transaction. I argued with them over this, but at the end of the day I had to sign the back of the card.
 
I m mailing off a few letters today and i will let everyone know what happens. Thanks for all of the great information and advice. Im glad to see that niggas on BGOL know more than ass and titties
 
Chase Bannon said:
I use to do this but some places like the post office required a signature to be on back of your card or you can't complete the transaction. I argued with them over this, but at the end of the day I had to sign the back of the card.

I've run into that before. Just make sure your photo ID has a signature on it. WI drivers licenses' do.
 
one of the best threads... ever called them, disputed, removed! and was sent an updated credit report to confirm...
 
Props to MONEYGOD, Mac4L1ph3, roots69 & bitterchild. Great Post. I really really needed this information. Thank You.
 
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